Oem Offroad roof light install notes

[Hunner]

This is not for the faint of heart! I hate drilling holes in the roof. NOW I know how customers feel when I bore holes in their fiberglass boats. Ha ha. This is different, it's MY H3! I got my nerve up reading Mike's install. I however have a few observations. I have the new part number unit but I don't know whats different.

http://www.rausite.com/hummerh3.htm

BEFORE you disconnect battery!!
1. Unlock all doors
2. If you have a sunroof open it.
3. If you have an automatic put on the E brake and move the shifter back to 1.
Then disconnect ground at battery. I found out the hard way and had to hook back up after removing the fuse box.
I did not have to remove any of the many items listed under the dash, just the center piece using the lighter plugs method.
Trying to crimp the wires is a pain, in more ways than one. They are short and hard to get both hands up in there. What's new? I don't think removing all that would help much anyway. You will need to use special crimpers. You have to crimp once and move back to the next slot and crimp again. These small wires are hard to pinch. Then use a heat gun to shrink them.
They said to torque the riv-nuts to 75 ft lbs. I don't think so. Hold the riv-nut down firmly to the roof while wrenching. I did apply some light silicone grease to the threads. You can run the threads all the way down before you insert it. Then after inserting and wrenching, you see the black sealant that comes on them bulge out I would quit. I torqued one to like 10 or so and it started pushing the roof up around the riv-nut. They shorted me one white plastic washer and one crimp connector.
I too tried the paper template and decided to use the real thing. One more note on the riv-nuts. I put lock tite on the knurled part. Just me but Im used to race cars and lots of vibration and fear of parts flying off. It will help if you remove the screws for adustment just in case the riv-nut base trys to slip.
When putting the fuse box back on make sure to raise the two multiplugs in the bottom of the box up until they click or you will not make contact. Trust me.
Four short hours later, Houston we are ready for lift off. I wonder what the book time on this is?

[Hunner]

I got all kinds of crimpers but these on the left are best for these thin wires. The strippers on the right aren't cute but they are easier to do in tight places because they pull the end off for you. Im throwing all this out to help those that might not know all this so Im trying to be detailed. All you master mechanics can just grin. Oh and read the instructions. The ones plastered to the shrink wrap cardboard were x'ed out and there was a new sheet laying in the box. They must have changed something.

[Hunner]

I do see the glare some talked about. I think abs plastic glare shields might work and look ok. I have a white hood so it got bright. I just slumped down in the seat more. Ha ha. What about getting some black magnetic sign material to cover from the windshield out to the hood vent. Then maybe a piece on each side of the raised part out even with that. You would only need it for night runs. Im not sure I want to paint my hood yet. On my white H3 Im thinkin of painting the genuine simulated air intakes with a textured paint. Just thinking. They would stand out and not glare. Stay tuned.............

[SDH3]

Good info, thanks