Creeking noise - front end

[tbuckley]

The left-front end of my rig seems to be "creeking" or "kinda grinding" when I turn to the right and occasionally to the left. It sounds worse when I turn to the right with the front left carrying more weight -- i.e. coming down a hill and turning right.

Could it be a bearing? Loose bolts? My H2 has a 4" lift, dual shock hoops up front and I'm running 38" x 13.50" Toyos. I know the above is vague, but does anyone have an idea of what it could be??? I did check for any small woodland creatures hiding under there... none found.
Any help would be appreciated -- thanks all!

I noticed in my 'search' of the site that there have been some discussions about a similar sounding problem, but no answer to the sound or fix.

[tbuckley]

Phil -- I've tried to locate the sound by walking next to it while turning, etc. and it's nearly impossible to tell where the heck it's coming from. Definitely in and amongst the steering assembly under the wheel well. As you suggested, a bad wheel bearing was my first guess... you also mentioned a "half shaft CV"? The boots themselves are in good shape - no tears, etc., but are you suggesting that one of my CV joints could be caput?

[KenP]

Originally Posted by tbuckley

Phil -- I've tried to locate the sound by walking next to it while turning, etc. and it's early impossible to tell where the heck it's coming from. Definitely in and amongst the steering assembly under the wheel well. As you suggested, a bad wheel bearing was my first guess... you also mentioned a "half shaft CV"? The boots themselves are in good shape - no tears, etc., but are you suggesting that one of my CV joints could be caput?

Possibly. Take the truck in some mud and wheel that thing and see what happens.

When our CV broke, we couldn't operate the t-case. Does yours still operate and does the sound still occur when in 4low?

[PARAGON]

You can walk next to it and replicate the noise?

Better explain the noise. Relate it to something. Be as silly as you have to be, but the better the explanation (since no one except you can actually hear it) the better the help.

For instance, a bearing is going to be sorta deeper since it resonates through all the heavy metal of the hub and half shaft.

If it's brakes, it will be more grindy sounding but not very "deep"

[PARAGON]

Originally Posted by sfox

Wheel bearing can make a range of noises from high pitch to groaning ours made a high pitch from rubbing on the back of the brake rotor. Wash the wheel and see if the brake dust builds up unusually fast. Another easy check is to raise the tire off the ground with a jack and check for play or slop in it, compare the two sides, they should be the same.........ours is in the shop to have the hub bearing replaced right now.

S

That's messed up. Is that all that has to be replaced?

Any carnage pics.

[tbuckley]

Oh you boys are good... real good.

The noise: when turning to the right, with nearly my whole freekin' head inside the wheel well, the creeking noise is more of a series of deep clicks -- the slower the rig moves, the slower the clicks come. They are somewhat deep sounding -- it must be related to a rotating part of somekind.

T-case seems to be working fine; the sound does not change whether I'm in 4-lo, high, etc.

I did not notice any rubbing on the back of the brake rotor either.

Thanks for the guidance... I'll see if I can't replicate the sound, record and post. Gnomes... it must be those GD garden gnomes!

[PARAGON]

Originally Posted by tbuckley

Oh you boys are good... real good.

The noise: when turning to the right, with nearly my whole freekin' head inside the wheel well, the creeking noise is more of a series of deep clicks -- the slower the rig moves, the slower the clicks come. They are somewhat deep sounding -- it must be related to a rotating part of somekind.

T-case seems to be working fine; the sound does not change whether I'm in 4-lo, high, etc.

I did not notice any rubbing on the back of the brake rotor either.

Thanks for the guidance... I'll see if I can't replicate the sound, record and post. Gnomes... it must be those GD garden gnomes!

I would just about put some money on a CV in the half-shaft. It probably hasn't completely blown yet but they can "click".

We had a Acura Legend that was FWD and it had a click on the CV and they wouldn't replace it as it was "within spec"

[tbuckley]

Damn... I've had night mares about CV joints, boots, grease on every Chevy I've owned. Either way, I should probably get ready for a fight since I've lifted 'er up. I'll let ya'll know if I end up on the evening news!

[PARAGON]

Originally Posted by tbuckley

Damn... I've had night mares about CV joints, boots, grease on every Chevy I've owned. Either way, I should probably get ready for a fight since I've lifted 'er up. I'll let ya'll know if I end up on the evening news!

If you can determine for sure that it is one of the CVs, a half shaft is less than $100 online in places and you or just about any shop can replace it.

[tbuckley]

Well done, Paragon. Great idea.

[Alan06SUT]

Mine was clicking too and it was my lower control arm bolt. It became loose and backed out far enogh that the bolt (front side) was hittling the CV shaft at the bolt star as it spun. I would also check and make sure all steering componets and suspension componet's bolts are torqued to factory specs as many people here have had one or another of these bolts come loose.

[KenP]

Check that bolt and if it's tight, get a new shaft.

It's amazing how many Front Wheel Drive vehicles "click" when turning and you know just what the problem is.

[PARAGON]

Originally Posted by PhilD

BTW I know this is obvious, but for those that carry a spare half shaft, make sure you have a 35mm socket and something to use as a breaker bar.

I have a 1 3/8" socket that fits damn snugly on there. It's what I happened to have and it fits well.

After hearing of some issues with 2-H2's breaking extensions and stuff with his 1/2" drive, I picked up the breaker bar and extension from the farm that is a 1" drive.

[Crash ?]

Originally Posted by PhilD

Almost identical sizes, 1 3/8" = 1.375", 35mm = 1.378"

What's that equal to in Imperial sizes..??

[tbuckley]

Alan: good idea regardsing the lower control arm -- but I checked and tightened to spec. Still creeking along. I would also bet I'm looking at a new half shaft.

Phil: terrific suggestion on rockauto.com as well as the tips on replacement.

Garden Gnomes: get the @$!&%^$ outta my rig!