New front locker with 4.88's

[RuggedH2]

Well........ I've had the Eaton front locker for awhile and was waiting for the warranty to expire before installing it........ but I couldn't wait anymore so.......

New 4.88 Precision gears with the locker.

I also had the rear Rancho drop down brackets (for the control arms) removed. I hung up on those damn things more than any other part. Much better clearance back there now.

I'm having some new adjustable lower control arms fabbed up using tubes with a Heim/Johnny joint on the frame end and a bushing on the axle end. They are not finished yet so the stock arms went back into the factory mounting points. I have since found out that FabTech doesn't even use those rear drop brackets.

[brad_p]

How much did install end up costing you for the locker? Also how much lift do you have?

[RuggedH2]

I left about 4 grand with them, but I got some Staun internal beadlocks too....... and some other good stuff.

They put it all together as a package deal. Master install kits and fluid included.

The lift is the Rancho 4" but I don't have the torsions cranked up...... in order to maintain a good half-shaft angle. It also has 38" tall BFG KM2's.

Pic is of Moab Rim (Z-Turn) couple months ago...... It is the reason for the drop bracket removal.....



The "Fall" on Steel Bender..... same story

[brad_p]

Looks good. Im thinking about maybe getting a 4inch rancho. Probably gonna get a pitman and idler support kit and new tie rods 1st. Im running the same tire only 37's, how are yours wearing?

[RuggedH2]

So far they are wearing well. That is the best tire I've ever owned, the tire flex around rocks and traction is outstanding...... I ended up getting both back wheels caught between two huge boulders while running Strike Ravine in Moab about a month ago. The tire pulled a full inch and a half away from the wheel without losing the bead...... incredible.

Absolutely get the Cognito kit! I installed the idler pivot kit also because of the big tires. I have put that front end through hell since I added all that, and have had zero problems with it.........yet.

[timgco]

Damn that underbody looked clean. WTH? you must have painted it or something. DAMN SLC H2 OWNERS.

Looks good!!!!

Gonna be around in 2 weeks?

[brad_p]

Yeah i had to replace the pitman and idler about 7k back. I replaced it with moog but from what i hear the only way to stop the wear is with the support kit. As far as tie rods what did you end up getting?

[RuggedH2]

What up Timmay!

Yeah I've sprayed a little water under there from time to time. It's nowhere near as nice as it once was.

The Dupli-Color truck bed coating works pretty good too.

When the rocks tear it off....... just spray more on.

The tie-rods are Fab-Tech, Brad.

[RuggedH2]

I kept the 4.10's (in the box) Hopefully I never need them again, but they looked perfect.

[ROX]

SWEET!!!

I can't wait to see how well it does, now! Very cool.

[RuggedH2]

Thanks Rox!

Neo bought an older 2 door H1 he is planning on building into his trail rig.

Just keeping up with the Jones's out here.

[tomp]

The 4.10s can be sold to someone wanting to upgrade their 08+ model that has 3.73s

Can you get an extra set of the rear control arms fabbed up? I'd be interested if the price is right or maybe we can work out a deal on a custom steering link stabilization that I am working on. Surely you have seen the issues with it flexing now that you have the other steering parts under control...

Looks like you are doing it right. I agree those drop brackets suk. I have 1" coil spacers on my rear and True Tech control arms. They are not adjustable but I have a custom length set. I have all te Cognito gear up front as well and using their uniball UCAs.

Make sure they leave extra internal slack in the front locker wiring or the wires will break when the diff shifts internally - as mine did.

Make sure and change fluid at 500 miles regardless of what installer tells you. After new gears and locker install, mine was full of small metal particles. Installer said I didnt need to change fluid until 50K because I was running full syn fluid but they were full of it!!! Lots of metal came pouring out...

Did you see my thread on HXC about how to wire the front locker in with the rear so they both get deactivated when TC module senses over 20 MPH? I love this mod so dealer or other unknowing person driving my rig does not hit locker button to engage while driving down highway or similar.

[RuggedH2]

Hey Tomp,

Yeah I read your thread, I thought about that.

I didn't realize that internal slack was the issue with the wires.....I know some others had that occur also.

I have looked at those Uni-ball UCA's for awhile now...... Do you feel they were worthwhile? Do they give significant droop improvement? They are a little pricey and I wasn't sure they will warrant the expense.

You are right, the installer said it won't be necessary to drain the fluid since it's Royal Purple. I will take your advice and do it anyway.

When I get those arms I'll post some pics to see what you think. They will be stronger than stock for sure, and they should slide over the rocks better too.

[RuggedH2]

Well....... I went to get the truck this morning..... didn't make it home. I spent an hour on the side of the road waiting for a tow-truck.

The whole front end bound up. Something was not done right. I put the transfer case in neutral to load it on the flatbed and the front end wouldn't turn at all.

I haven't had any problems with this rig the whole time I've had it. Right now I feel like I spent thousands to have it fawked up for me!

The guy I'm dealing with at 4 Wheel Parts is a good guy and he's apologizing like crazy........ I just hope they get it made right. I'm sure the new front gears are destroyed (maybe the locker)........ By the time they get this fixed now. The whole deal will be for zero profit on their end.

[tomp]

Sorry to hear that bu this is a perfect example of why a person capable of doing this themselves would still opt to have diffs done by someone else. Dont worry, they'll get it right and they are distributors of Eaton elockers and various gear vendors. Ensure they leave the slack in the wire when they re-assemble it

Yep, definitely change the fluid out at 500 miles. I used Redline fluid and even through in a bottle of some friction modifier fluid to reduce friction and lower temps and still had lots of metal pour out.

Keep me updated...

THe front locker option definitely makes a big difference offroad, when you need it.

[RuggedH2]

Well they cracked the case open and found the problem.

It turns out when they sealed the case with adhesive sealer it expanded into the oil channel to the pinion bearing........ without enough oil it seized.

The good news is that it didn't damage much....... The case is fine as is the locker, the ring gear is fine but the pinion is shot.

4 Wheel Parts has been good, they ordered a new ring and pinion and master install kit with the bearing and expedited shipping it in.

So far I'm happy with them.

Tomp I told them about the slack issue and they are on it.

[RuggedH2]

How did you reprogram the computer for the lower gears?

My speedometer is gonna be way off.

I have a Hyper-tech programmer now, but from the directions it looks like it doesn't have a gear program for the 6.0 litre.

[RuggedH2]

It's back and it's badass!

Took it out for a long freeway run and then off road. Locked both lockers and walked right up a couple very steep, very loose, big ruts big rock outcropping trails.

All four wheels pulling together kicks the crap out of the traction control.

OUTSTANDING!!!

4 Wheel Parts took their time, but they did a great job!