|
|
05-12-2003, 03:03 AM
|
|
Hummer Veteran
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Kelowna,B.C., CANADA
Posts: 175
|
|
Why does the rear diff lock turn of when you go above 32KPH? This is the stupidest thing ever. It turns off almost every time I'm going through a large mud hole, Is thier a way to have the rear diff stay on? The truck isn't going 32KPH but the tires are spinning that fast and it always shuts off when I need it the most!
__________________
2006 Pacific Blue H2 SUT
-Rancho Lift
-39.5" IROK Tires
-20" Rockstar wheels
-MagnaCharger S/C
|
05-12-2003, 03:03 AM
|
|
Hummer Veteran
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Kelowna,B.C., CANADA
Posts: 175
|
|
Why does the rear diff lock turn of when you go above 32KPH? This is the stupidest thing ever. It turns off almost every time I'm going through a large mud hole, Is thier a way to have the rear diff stay on? The truck isn't going 32KPH but the tires are spinning that fast and it always shuts off when I need it the most!
__________________
2006 Pacific Blue H2 SUT
-Rancho Lift
-39.5" IROK Tires
-20" Rockstar wheels
-MagnaCharger S/C
|
05-12-2003, 01:27 PM
|
|
Banned
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 24,247
|
|
This is what happens when you overspin your tires and loose the traction control and diff lock features.
|
05-12-2003, 02:27 PM
|
|
Banned
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 24,247
|
|
PhilD,
You are exactly right. There has always been 2 schools of thought when you encounter mud. High wheel spin or crawl. Alot of this depends on the vehicle and the tires, but with today's vehicles (Land Rovers, Land Cruisers, etc) nearly any obstacle requires low speed crawling. These vehicles with the traction control properties are not made to "throw alot of mud" and do their best when you are at low speeds when off road.
The picture above is a result of getting stuck and then making matters worse by "trying" the high rpm wheel spin. The whole frame ended up on the ground and the right tubelar assist steps was bent up and back about 3 inches. The rig could not simply be winched out without using a few snatch blocks and several hours. Over 3 tons dug into the ground creates alot of resistance. By the way, even though the whole frame was dug into the ground, there was no damage (except for the nerf bar) and cleaning under there was not a big deal.
|
05-12-2003, 04:57 PM
|
|
Banned
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 24,247
|
|
I ended up with alot of mud on the driveway as well, but I simply used a water hose and laid down on the driveway and washed the still wet mud out. The mud was kinda soupy so it all came off easily enough but I hated to use my pressure washer because it has a tendancy to drive the mud up further into the chassis instead of washing it off.
After the water hose was used I quickly drove to one of those touchless car wash places that are at fuel stations everywhere. The one I go to has the underbody was as you drive in and the combination seemed to do the trick.
I had to use the winch with a double pulley snatch block on a big oak tree, another single block on one tow hook and the end of the cable on the other tow hook. The cable went from winch, to tree, back to the block attached to the tow hook, back to the tree and then the cable was hooked to the other tow hook. We also jerked it a few times with a strap attached to my tractor. I had 2 20 ton clevices attached to each of the tow hooks. My dad used to go to heavy equipment auctions and had bought alot of heavy duty stuff for our tractors and dozer. That's where I got the double pulley block and the clevices. I keep one clevice hooked to one of the tow hooks because it's easier to hook to than trying to work with just the tow hook itself.
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT +1. The time now is 10:38 AM.
|