Torsion bar keys

[flyin6]

When lifting my Z71 Suburban, which is a 1/2 ton model, I used the Ford Keyways.
The Hummer is essentially a HD Silverado, which I have never modified. Do we use the Ford keyways or the green Chevy keyways to get approximately 3" lift?
Ford keyways are $39 for the pair. Aftermarket stuff is $99 or more for the same thing. Anyone know for sure??????

[flyin6]

Sore subject or something???

[audiofetish]

Originally Posted by flyin6

Sore subject or something???

H2's do not do well with Torsion bar lifts. You will have a lot of problems down the road if you crank them.

[tomp]

Originally Posted by audiofetish

H2's do not do well with Torsion bar lifts. You will have a lot of problems down the road if you crank them.

And just where did you hear that from? I actually cranked mine up and did it where it rides better than stock. I made custom lower shock brackets to allow the upper control arm to just barely touch the steel-tab-stop. Then I measured the difference between the foam bump stops and lower control arm, fabricated steel plate to take up that difference and inserted in between the bump stop and frame. Now I have more droop and still rest on the bump stops as it did from the factory. Topped it off with Cognito pitman & Idler kit and Rancho 9000 shocks and now bettwe then it was when it was new!

[flyin6]

Originally Posted by audiofetish

H2's do not do well with Torsion bar lifts. You will have a lot of problems down the road if you crank them.

Possibly, if it is done incorrectly.

Incorrectly= just cranking

Correctly done= correct keys, which happen to be the 1/2 ton chevy green keys for the 3/4 ton crowd (us), Cognito upper control arms, longer shocks, and a fresh alignment.

Have run my Suburban for years cranked with narry a problem.

[audiofetish]

Originally Posted by tomp

And just where did you hear that from? I actually cranked mine up and did it where it rides better than stock. I made custom lower shock brackets to allow the upper control arm to just barely touch the steel-tab-stop. Then I measured the difference between the foam bump stops and lower control arm, fabricated steel plate to take up that difference and inserted in between the bump stop and frame. Now I have more droop and still rest on the bump stops as it did from the factory. Topped it off with Cognito pitman & Idler kit and Rancho 9000 shocks and now bettwe then it was when it was new!

Well obviously that is not just a Torsion bar lift. You can search any Hummer forum and find a lot of info on the cons of torsion lifts. I think what he was referring to was a torsion bar adjustment or keys without correcting the other suspension issues. H2s have a lot more weight than the trucks. I still think that you would be putting more stress on the suspension components that would cause some issue in the future, especially if you Off Road a lot. BTW, did you replace the upper control arms? I have been trying to find someone that has to see what the drive is like. Thanks for the info!