Ignition Switch & dead battery fix

[mdoyle]

I've had the same problem as a few others here with instrument and battery lights staying lit after key removal resulting in a dead battery. Lately I've also had hard starting, no matter how long I would let the engine crank it wouldn't fire but cycling the ignition switch would result in an instant start.

Today I finally decided to fix it and thought I'd share the info. The part you need is an "ignition and start switch" part number 15242754 and runs $38.50. You'll also want to ask for a copy of documents:

834551 Steering Wheel Theft Deterrent Lock Replacement
847831 SIR Disabling and Enabling (to prevent air bag deployment)
841952 Ignition and Start Switch Replacement

Start by pulling the negative battery cable to disable the air bag and then remove the bottom steering column cover, it just pulls off it's locking tabs.

The upper cover is retained by one male torx fastener. You can use a 5/16" six sided socket if you don't have the right adaptor. Then the upper cover separates from the column.

Then use a small flat blade screwdriver to press the release on the theft deterrent lock harness connector, then press the plastic latch to easily remove this part. The document shows prying it, but pressing the latch is easier. The same goes for the key alarm connector, there is a tiny release tab you can engage with a small flat screwdriver so it's removal is easy.

The rest of the procedure involves unplugging two more harness connectors and finally the ignition/start switch can be unslid from the housing. One thing not covered in the manual is the position of the key relative the switch housing gear. Make sure you position the new switch in the same position as the old one.

After you install the switch connect everything up and test it before putting the housing back on. If the key sequence is off, release the ignition/start switch and reposition the plastic gear manually.

I did a post-mordem on my old switch and it looks like they are using slightly different components than 2003. I think the problem with mine was wear on the white switch gear that didn't totally take the ignition out of circuit when the key was removed.

It seems to have solved the problem, I won't know for sure until a couple of weeks of driving have gone by since it was an intermittant problem. The whole repair took about 30 minutes. Hopefully this info is useful to others.

[dochummer]

Great info! I have the same problem with my switch. Although, probably not as bad as yours. I'll probably end up replacing it sometime this summer....

[dochummer]

Ok, so I finally got around to replacing the switch. Prior to replacement, I would get the occasional dead/almost dead battery because part of the driver's info area remained lit after removing the key. I found that if I grabbed the plastic surround around where the key goes in, I could turn it forward and it would turn the PRND123... light on. If I turned it back towards me (as if I were turning the vehicle off), then it would turn off. After replacing the switch, I still have the same "problem." I can grab the plastic part and turn the "ignition" forward and the light comes on, turn it back and it goes off. Although it is about 2-3x's more difficult now to do it. So, is this normal for the vehicle? Did I install it incorrectly? I thought everything was fine, because it actually didn't do it (atleast I thought it didn't) until I replaced the steering column housing.... I'm just kinda pissed right now because it took me an hour to do it.... Otherwise, the vehicle starts just fine....

[dochummer]

Oh, and I guess the other question is whether setting the "gears" on the switch incorrectly would cause this problem?

[Sundown94]

After having my ignition switch replaced this past week (because my truck would not start), I now have this same problem that Dochummer had. Is there a way to fix this? Is the ignition switch "adjustable" so that all lights go off (and stay off) when you turn the key back and pull it out?

[IRA51]

sounds like you missed by 1 tooth,take it out and move the white gear 1 tooth .

[Sundown94]

Thanks for the tip IRA. The mechanic and I were looking at the old switch this morning (before reading your post) and were baffled as to how the white gear could be off, especially since a significantly wider notch in the gear is exposed when the switch is in the "off" position. This notch led us to believe that there could only be one way to install the switch (with the notch aligned to the key cylinder), but from reading your post, maybe this is not true.

In any event, the problem was "solved". They replaced the new ignition switch from last week with yet another new one and I can definitely feel the difference when turning the key. When the key is turned back and ready to be pulled out, all lights on the dash shut off as they are supposed to, and when I turn the key forward to start the engine, the key doesn't turn quite as far as it used to before the starter kicks in. I don't know if this difference in key travel has anything to do with the fact that it is another new switch, or if the mechanic somehow lined up the gears more accurately. I will definitely ask him what he did, but my main concern now is that everything stays working. :-)

[Eric1h]

I have the same problem as Sundown94 after replacing my switch, can the gear teeth REALLy be off? Doesnt seem that they would fit any other way.

[Contract_Pilot]

I am having a Similar Issue, Pull key out and Lights + The Radio Stays On? Remove the WS WPR 25A Fuse and it works As it Should? Would the Ignition Switch cause this? Or should I look elsewhere?

[HUMTECH]

http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=43463

[Contract_Pilot]

HumTech

I Swapped the Ignition Switch, Swapped relays, Removed Cowl (PITA), Un Plugged Wiper Motor, No Go, Un Plugged wiper module what would you know same as taking the fuse out. Well I think i have a bad Wiper Module any other place I should look, I did have some corroded and bad solder connections I touched them up and still not go odd thing is my wipers work just fine.

And part number for wiper control Wiper/Washer Module

I pull the washer Relay and I get wipers but not interment and the thing works like it should..

I came up with part number 19120103

Part on order and will update....

[Contract_Pilot]

Originally Posted by Contract_Pilot

HumTech

I Swapped the Ignition Switch, Swapped relays, Removed Cowl (PITA), Un Plugged Wiper Motor, No Go, Un Plugged wiper module what would you know same as taking the fuse out. Well I think i have a bad Wiper Module any other place I should look, I did have some corroded and bad solder connections I touched them up and still not go odd thing is my wipers work just fine.

And part number for wiper control Wiper/Washer Module

I pull the washer Relay and I get wipers but not interment and the thing works like it should..

I came up with part number 19120103

Part on order and will update....

Update 04/26 got the part will update later today once I get it installed.. Installed, Washer Relay back in and working as it should..

[HUMTECH]

So its fixed? Wiper module?

[Contract_Pilot]

Originally Posted by HUMTECH

So its fixed? Wiper module?

Yes, It was the Wiper module! But I ended up breaking 2 clips on the cowling there were rusted out. Need to find the replacement part numbers order a set of 4 the other 2 dont seem to be gripping as they should either.

[Easy Ed]

Bought my clips here http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/GM_...r_p/a20860.htm

Ended up with more than needed but at the time I could not find them any where. Might use part number to see if you can get them cheaper.

I had a wiper module problem (ran all the fluid out of the tank to the rear wiper) and found that there was condensation in the module, dried it out and was go to go and been good since. Then they put out a recall on the 2003 models for the module. here is a post on that http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=35772

Congrats on fixing yours,

Ed