Brake pad and rotor replacement on H1

[drdonpalmer]

Hello, I'm a new H1 owner and new to the board.
Need to do some brake service and the dealer told me there is a special proprietary tool that I can't get that is needed to service the brakes.
The service manual indicates two tools: one is listed as a "crowfoot" used to remove caliper from adapter (this is the front brakes) and the other is part J-42553, which is used to rotate and compress the caliper simultaneously.
What is a crowfoot? Is the caliper compressing tool really necessary? Any tips or known issues when changing out these components? I've done brakes on all my other regular vehicles for years.
Thanks,
Dr. Don Palmer
PS I want to do them at least once for experience incase I have trouble in the field.

[ssgharkness020147]

You do not "need" the special piston compressor, but its going to make the job a whole hell of alot easier. Otherwise a vice, a big C-clamp, and some vice grips will get the job done. The company that makes the tools for HUMMER is called Kent Moore, and they are expensive to say the least. However, all is not lost for you grasshopper you can buy the tool from Mac tools. I'll post think link at the bottom of this page, 90 bucks and if you ever need to service them in the field you will not have the vice and all that other stuff on hand so I say buy it, not like it can hurt.

As for the Crows foot, they are a specific type of socket. You know the adapters that attach to you ratchet that look like little wrenches? Those are crows feet, they can be bought at any parts strore. Personally I say get a T-handled ratcheting wrench, thats what pretty much every other H1 owner uses to get the job done. They are more effective then a crows foot. Here is a link to all the brake tools you need for the rear brakes, I would reccomend just buying this. Its got everything you need, so you wont need to worry about having the right tools.
http://www.bluehummer.com/brpadretoset.html

The piston compressor:
https://www.mactools.com/portal/site/mactools/menuitem.6c9db894a3743751f735c110f070c3a0/?vgnextoid=024d4f99a75dc010VgnVCM100000104d840aRCR D&vgnextchannel=b8d621e5315fc010VgnVCM100000104d84 0aRCRD&vgnextfmt=default

[ssgharkness020147]

Oh and for refference here's a link to show you how to do the job:
http://flashoffroad.com/Maintenance/Brakes/Brakes.html

[drdonpalmer]

I've been on that site, how did I miss that?
Thanks so much Mr Miyagi, I mean Ssg Harkness.
I purchased/rented a tool kit from Kragen because I helped a friend yesterday do her brakes. She had the same kind of caliper, but with a different piston. The kit at Kragen had every format EXEPT for hummer.
Thanks again for all the extremely valuable information. I have completed all of the maintenance items so it isn't leaking anymore. The rusty coolant has been thoroughly flushed and replaced with new fluid. I just need to do brakes and trans filter. Based on the lack of maintenance this obviously had, I should change fluid in the transfer case and diffs as well.
BTW Dealer told me I also needed to change the rotors. Something about heat cracks. But when I checked, they looked fine. In fact no pulsations when braking and no scoreing, well very very minor. Rotors are 1 mm over min tolerance, but I noticed the new ones were only 2 mm over tolerance. I plan on using the rotors and just changing the pads. What do you think? One more pad set before rotor change?
Thank you,
Dr. Don Palmer

[ssgharkness020147]

Personally, when I do pads I like to do the rotors as well. But if yours are in spec there is no issue in re-using them, just get them machined and deglazed. I'm doing my brakes as well right now, if you choose to do rotors I got a set of Powerslots on ebay for cheap. The powerslots are slotted and so far my truck stops a whole lot better. I paid 159.00 per set from an ebay "store" called TriNet Motorsports. As far as the cracks go look very very carefully for them. From what I have seen of my HUMMER's rotors then tend to get hair line fractures around the rotor in the center running in a vertical pattern. That is what I would look for most, if you do find them replace the rotors.

You deffinetly need to replace the fluid in the T-case, that stuff burns up almost as fast as engine oil. When you drain it out look for color and make sure it is not burned. Most of the time it is brown, but it all depends on when it was last changed and how the truck has been driven since being changed. Use a high quality synthetic ATF in the T-case, I only use Amsoil and it seems to last better then anything else.

You may as well do the diffs as well, while your in there. Depending on the year of your truck (99+) you will need to add a friction modifier. Its imperitive to do so if your truck calls for it.

Have you changed the geared hub fluid yet? If not you may as well knock those out too. For the hubs I use and highly reccomend getting Lucas Hub Oil for them, that stuff is great. It also helps keep the CTIS seals swolen, which will prevent you system from leaking and it will keep fluid from entering your tires. When you disconnect the CTIS quick connects on the tires if you are finding any traces of oil on the connectors your seals are leaking, using Hub Oil can help seal it up.