Phil/Paragon: Steering issue

[tomp]

Okay, something strange is going on. When I take off, it pulls to one side slightly and when I brake it pulls a little to the other side. What would cause this? I just recently had an alignment and everything checked out fine.

[KenP]

Torque steer can cause the pulling problem when accelerating.
Extreme Hummer torque steer

However, you have the same problem I do at braking. I haven't even been offroad since our last alignment, new center link and tie rods.

I'm starting to think it could be normal to pull some on braking. I actually have to turn the wheel to stay straight.

Phil? P?

[ssgharkness020147]

Actually Ken, That is probably because of your tire size. At least that has been my experience. It tends to worsen when you go to more agressive tires, I've never seen the Toyo MT's (that you run) in person, but that could also be a contributing factor. Do you have a steering stabablizer installed??? That might help you a bit (it did for me), but the symptom remains to an extent. You might also want to check the U-joints on the intermediate shaft as well.

OK. Time for an ignorant H2 question: Does the H2 have a steering gear, or is it rack and pinon? If it has a gear Ken the preload on the gear itself could be out of adjustment, the gear will work considerably harder with all the mods you have to the suspension, tire size, and off set that you have on your rims.

Originally Posted by KenP

I'm starting to think it could be normal to pull some on braking. I actually have to turn the wheel to stay straight.

Phil? P?

[tomp]

Atfer reading the posts and thinking abouthtis some, I am almost certain it's caused by my wider tire/wheel combo, non-perfect alignment, and the fact that I now run my Rancho 9000s very soft on the street. The soft setting on the shocks probably just adds to the issue.

[PARAGON]

Originally Posted by tomp

Atfer reading the posts and thinking abouthtis some, I am almost certain it's caused by my wider tire/wheel combo, non-perfect alignment, and the fact that I now run my Rancho 9000s very soft on the street. The soft setting on the shocks probably just adds to the issue.

you just answered your question, most likely. If your shocks are indeed set to a softer setting and you have some nose dive, weight transfer will cause more grip to one of those larger tires. It would indeed be opposite than acceleration on a road camber situation.

Phil's suggestion of finding a good street with nice camber on both sides and going the wrong way and trying it would be a big determiner.

Ummm........ I have no pull, whatsoever. Have never noticed it except on occasion after wheeling but it seems to settle out.

Torque steer on hard acceleration with both Phil and Ken's trucks would be understandable since the rear would set down lift the front some and you would be reaching the toe in point. But you would think that upon braking that it would have nothing to do with it since the steering components should be nearing horizontal alignment.

I'm betting with both Ken's and Phil's it has more to do with the shocks and the lift (coupled with the tires). Take out the nose dive where the truck doesn't shift weight as much and you wouldn't have as much pull. Just a thought.

[tomp]

I also think one of my torsion bars is under more tension than the other one. Whenever I cranked the bolts, one side was much much harder to turn than the other.

Besides checking the height of the frame from the ground, is there a more accurate way to check the adjustment? Turning the TB bolts the same amount of turns does not seem like it would cause both sides to be the same as they probably have different spring rates.

Since I noticed one side was much harder to turn, I think one of the TBs is at a much higher rate than the other. This coupled with the soft shock setting.

Any ideas on checking tension between the two TBs? Maybe an old style torque wrench with a spring loaded pointer?

[PARAGON]

Originally Posted by tomp

I also think one of my torsion bars is under more tension than the other one. Whenever I cranked the bolts, one side was much much harder to turn than the other.

Besides checking the height of the frame from the ground, is there a more accurate way to check the adjustment? Turning the TB bolts the same amount of turns does not seem like it would cause both sides to be the same as they probably have different spring rates.

Since I noticed one side was much harder to turn, I think one of the TBs is at a much higher rate than the other. This coupled with the soft shock setting.

Any ideas on checking tension between the two TBs? Maybe an old style torque wrench with a spring loaded pointer?

Well, I don't think you would adjust to have them the same, in theory. One front wheel might carry more sprung weight than the other. Of course, if there is a huge imbalance then it would be all screwed up any way since you would have different spring rates over the life of the TBs. Which brings you to another possibility. TBs soften over time and can do a differing rates, so the rate on one might be different than the rate on another.

There is a z-height setting that is suggested from GM which you could prolly search here and find out to figure out.

[Big Z]

Originally Posted by tomp

I also think one of my torsion bars is under more tension than the other one. Whenever I cranked the bolts, one side was much much harder to turn than the other.

Besides checking the height of the frame from the ground, is there a more accurate way to check the adjustment? Turning the TB bolts the same amount of turns does not seem like it would cause both sides to be the same as they probably have different spring rates.

Since I noticed one side was much harder to turn, I think one of the TBs is at a much higher rate than the other. This coupled with the soft shock setting.

Any ideas on checking tension between the two TBs? Maybe an old style torque wrench with a spring loaded pointer?

Measure from the Top of the tire, to the Fender....First thing usually done in an alignment shop, (good one anyway) espesially with over size tires. Adjustment should be Equal. Hope your not Adjusting the TB's, Due to Load Distibution!

Too MUCH Adjustment is NOT Good!

[tomp]

The height from left to right is the same and same space between jounce jumpers. I checked all of this after several miles after TB adjustment and prior to alignment.

Sounds like I might just have to try stiffening up the shocks. Didn't really want to have to do that, but guess I can go up 1 setting at a time until I find a medium.

[Big Z]

Originally Posted by tomp

Sounds like I might just have to try stiffening up the shocks. Didn't really want to have to do that, but guess I can go up 1 setting at a time until I find a medium.

Start them all @ 5 and go up! be glad you did! 7 rear!

[KenP]

I had our old truck at 7 all around all the time.

[Big Z]

Originally Posted by PhilD

I ran mine at 9 in the end as i much preferred the firmer handling.

I BET!...With your Rig! ....The Lift and Taller Tires!...You could probably Run Double 9000's, And Dial In Perfection!