Front Driveshaft Removal

[pools2do]

Hi Everyone! Would there be any reprocussions to removing the front driveshaft? If the H2 is AWD ( I don't go offroad anyways), by removing the driveshaft I was thinking that it would have more power (RHP). I have a supercharger installed. Any help is always appreciated!!

Bill

[CHarris]

Some of the guys over on the Silverado SS forum have successfully removed the front driveshaft on thier AWD trucks (same transfer case) to dyno. They seem to get away with it, but GM swears it is bad. It won't give you any more total power than you have now. It would just send all of it to the rear.

I like posts like this. This is worthwhile communication. Some around here are all about name calling and other nonsense.

[CHarris]

Here's a question... If we dyno on a AWD dyno will the rear show 60% of the total HP and the front dyno 40% of the total. I can't find a local AWD dyno to answer the question myself.

[CHarris]

But the transfer case is supposed to sense slip and redirect power to the wheels that are not slipping... So I would expect that if the front driveshaft is removed, the power would all go to the rear. Now the issue as I understand it is that the slipping in the transfercase may over heat it and damamge it by running it without the front driveshaft. Is this correct?

[CHarris]

Originally posted by sfox:
I was under the impression that the traction control worked more from side to side than front to rear. So if drivers side front looses traction, the power is diverted to passenger side front. The front to back thing wouldn't make any sense as I thought the power ratio split was determined by the gears in the transfer case, not something computer controlled like the side to side power split. If it was front ot rear traction control and an an H2 gets high centered, were would the power go? As it is, a high centered H2 will spin one front and one rear (unless the rear has been locked), or at least I'm pretty sure that is what happens.....anybody?

S

I think you are right about traction control in general... but the transfer case is a viscuous coupling that will redirect power front to rear or vice versa depending on what it senses by itself. The traction control as I understand it directs power to left or right independently based on which wheel is slippings and which one isn't.
I know that one of these offroad heavy guys has the answer... we just have to wait for someone to pick up this thread.

[Hummie2]

Sorry guys your off by alittle bit. There is no viscous coupling in the H2. Pull the front drive shaft and you will have to go to 4lock to get the truck to move. It won't move in 4high open because there is a differential in the transfercase and it is normaly unlocked until you go to 4lock(either high or low). The power flow will simply take the path of least resistance. You can prove this by jacking one wheel up with a trolley jack in 4high open and lightly step on the brake enough to light the stop lights(this will deactivate the trac control) then try to drive off. It won't move until you let off the brake and trac control senses the spinning wheel (or wheels) and applies the brake to the spinning wheel(s) to add enough resistance to send power to the wheel(s) that still have traction.

[TXSUT]

Originally posted by CHarris:
the transfer case is a viscuous coupling

Originally posted by Hummie2:
There is no viscous coupling in the H2

CHarris, is that the type of "valuable contribution" to the website you were gloating about in that other thread?

[pools2do]

So to make a long story short, "It ain't gonna happen". I was really hoping I could remove the front shaft without any form of conflict. I was wondering about the computer traction issue and if there was a way around all that junk.
Hey thanks guys for ALL the input here. This forum is Great!

[KenP]

HummersGoneWild has removed his front shaft at the track. You may want to check with him on it. He may know a trick or two.

[Hummie2]

So to make a long story short, "It ain't gonna happen". I was really hoping I could remove the front shaft without any form of conflict.

Maybe I wasn't completely clear on my description. You can do it, but you will have to run in 4high lock. My question is why would you? You are sending all of the power to 1 axle instead of dividing it between 2, thus doubling the torque load on that axle. Sure you will get rid of a small amount of gear resistance (the power being sent through the Morse type chain) to the front axle, but at what price? See PhilD and my coments in the rear cover thread about the lube/heat problems we are seeing.

Don

[HUMMERcustoms.com/TAZ]

I have been wanting to dyno My rig but it is to long for the only AWD that i found so to dyno it the front shaft will have to be removed. What effect would this have on dyno numbers? I was actually told and I'm sorry I can not remember who but that You can not dyno without the front drive shaft. That has to be bull If HGW is pulling front drive to run on pace runs etc. I would like to dyno before and after SC or turbo but a little confused when i thought it would be Ok to pull front shaft for dyno, until this guy told me it will not work, which it has been expressed here that is not so that it should be Ok. I trust the info here more than most anyone else but I'm confused as to what the numbers would mean since you are not getting all power to rear on dyno. Man I hope i'm making since to someone and can explain what to expect with front shaft off during dyno.

Thanks for any help

TAZ (Rick0

[CHarris]

Originally posted by Hummie2:
Sorry guys your off by alittle bit. There is no viscous coupling in the H2. Pull the front drive shaft and you will have to go to 4lock to get the truck to move. It won't move in 4high open because there is a differential in the transfercase and it is normaly unlocked until you go to 4lock(either high or low). The power flow will simply take the path of least resistance. You can prove this by jacking one wheel up with a trolley jack in 4high open and lightly step on the brake enough to light the stop lights(this will deactivate the trac control) then try to drive off. It won't move until you let off the brake and trac control senses the spinning wheel (or wheels) and applies the brake to the spinning wheel(s) to add enough resistance to send power to the wheel(s) that still have traction.

Thanks for getting that all straightened out. I had been told that the Silverado SS, Yukon Denali, and H2 all shared the same transfer case. I got bum doped and spread it a little further.

Anyway, here's the correct dope...

The Silverado SS transfer case works pretty much how I described it... it is a NVG-149 with a viscuous coupling. As it really turns out the big Denali is a BW4482 and the H2 is the BW4484. All of which run at more or less 40/60 power split front/rear which is probably the source of confusion. Who knew GM would run so many different transfer cases all accomplishing more or less the same job.

So, now that I'm all clear on that... does someone know the max input power of the H2's BW4484?

I know the Silverado SS is rated at 2200 lb ft input to the transfer case. This would be a good spec to know and I cna't find it anywhere. Borg Warners website is not heavy on product specs.

Sorry for sharing confusion.

[DRTYFN]

Originally posted by CHarris:
...I got bum doped and spread it a little further.

...Sorry for sharing confusion.

You must be a Democrat.

[CHarris]

This is more than a little off topic...

But to answer the question - No.

Democrats don't like to go to war and don't work in warzones as civilians.

There are lots of democrats in Oregon, though. How do you fit in down there? Do you have a military background?

[HUMMERcustoms.com/TAZ]

Ok if I'm absorbing the info in this thread that I'm trying to figure out what happens to dyno My rig with front shaft out. If I understand I will need to remove the front shaft and lock transfer in 4 wheel hi lock is this correct since there is only rear wheel drive dyno's to use. Will this work and will it put all the power to rear? Somebody please give me some direction here. I'm hoping to dyno next weekend if I can understand how it should be done correctly with front shaft out.
I do not want to mess My rig up so i know there is somebody that knows what I should do if I have misunderstood the thread.
Thanks
TAZ

[frank6150]

Whatever you do Taz just don't listen to CHarris, he carries about as much useful info in him as a big fat stinkin pile of dog ****.