Locker in 4 hi and TCS/TSC2 question.

[PARAGON]

Actually I was serious about the curbs.

After seeing a few new people trying it, you could tell they were just having a hard time getting a feel for how much pressure and the timing and how much to release the brake, etc.

Really, they can run out to any parking lot or anywhere with a curb or anything they can take all 4 tires over and get used to feeling for that timing and everything.

My idea is to simulate being on the trail where you are going over the rocks, not completing an obstacle.

[PARAGON]

FWIW, I BTM all the time and always have. Anything that would get the truck bouncing or where you would get a lot of wheel spin or where it is very uneven rocky terrain, I am controlling forward progress the entire time by the amount of pressure I have applied to the brakes, even if it is a severe uphill climb over rocky terrain.

[PARAGON]

Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
Actually I was serious about the curbs.

I know you were

I wouldn't use BTM to drive over a curb though, nor would I use BTM to drive a trail with curb size rocks, just drive slowly.

Now if you could get the curbs spaced so you had different wheels going up and down at the same time, that would be much better practice. Barring that, larger blocks/walls etc would allow you to practice the skill a whole a lot better than you could on a curb .

Either way, getting a feeling of how to control movemnet over rocky terrain, by using a curb or bigger, is a good thing to try out a couple of times. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I agree.

Actually, curb isn't the best example. Those parking bumpers is what I was referring to. And going over them at an angle would be the point.

That would be the most readily available "obstacle" for someone to go try the idea out on.

I also wouldn't use BTM over curb-sized rocks. But for someone to go outside today and find something to try this on and go up and over and "feel" it, the little bumpers in parking lots is the most commonly available thing I could think of that someone could run over just about anywhere.

[PARAGON]

Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
the little bumpers in parking lots

Can everyone please make sure they do not post pictures of themselves doing this, they will be on Jeep forums all over the World in the blink of an eye

If you break a tie rod doing it, please remain silent </div></BLOCKQUOTE>That is a good point.

Go find a wooded trail and find a fallen log to try it out on, that way you are less susceptible to be videoed.

If ever questioned about what you are doing in either case, just say that you are "breaking in" the side walls of you tires so that they are more flexible.

[PARAGON]

Originally posted by PhilD:
If you break a tie rod doing it, please remain silent

It is advisable to upgrade to these tie rods before attempting any of these moves.

[johndjmix1]

I know the perfect spot for this, behind walmart off rt 34. Actually its like that field we went to last weekend but 30 times as big.

--John

[Boss Hoss]

[quote]Originally posted by PhilD:

Originally posted by PARAGON:
I wouldn't use BTM to drive over a curb though, nor would I use BTM to drive a trail with curb size rocks, just drive slowly.

I actually think Paragon is right about the curb. Its really just to get the feel for using your left foot...also switch driving foot from right foot to left or vise versa in daily driving will give you better "touch". I was using BTM(in Tellico) to go over rocks esp knowing i had a nice drop off and was mostly going to hit my ucp. How effective was I? Probably not very effect as i did not have the practice under my belt for two foot driving. To me it felt awkward but had i used my left foot prior to getting there im sure i wouldve been more successful.

[Hummie2]

Originally posted by johndjmix1:
I don't get why you would want to hit the brake to disengauge it...sounds like keeping it on is EXACTLY what you would want.

Yea, I know the locker is just an eaton e-locker, so I guess someone has to tell me where that wire terminates and ill just cut it and set up a switch to triger the solinoid.

--John

When you cut into the wire make sure you don't defeat the diode in the circuit. The diode is supposed to be in there to control transient voltages that generate in the electric coil of the locker when you switch the locker off. Those transient voltage spikes just love to find their way back to computer modules and blow chips. That is why you always see diodes on coils like A/C clutches, winch solenoids, etc.

I am actuall giving serious consideration to removing my rear E-locker and going back with a Detroit Locker. Much stronger setup IMO. Detroit Lockers are about the only thing on a 4X4 that I haven't been able to destroy.

[ROX]

Cool. I didn't realize TC2 allows for more rpm's before the brake engages. I thought it turned the Traction control off completely. When I'm in sand and mud I turn TC2 on and drive in 4 lo, 2nd gear cuz it gets me moving quicker than 4hi, 1st gear. Especially on steep hills.
The only thing that turns it off completely is the brake light. Couldn't they give us a switch for that too?

[PARAGON]

Originally posted by H2 Rocks:
Cool. I didn't realize TC2 allows for more rpm's before the brake engages. I thought it turned the Traction control off completely. When I'm in sand and mud I turn TC2 on and drive in 4 lo, 2nd gear cuz it gets me moving quicker than 4hi, 1st gear. Especially on steep hills.
The only thing that turns it off completely is the brake light. Couldn't they give us a switch for that too?

They did, it's called the ABS fuse.

[Dewi2005]

Originally posted by PARAGON:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H2 Rocks:
Cool. I didn't realize TC2 allows for more rpm's before the brake engages. I thought it turned the Traction control off completely. When I'm in sand and mud I turn TC2 on and drive in 4 lo, 2nd gear cuz it gets me moving quicker than 4hi, 1st gear. Especially on steep hills.
The only thing that turns it off completely is the brake light. Couldn't they give us a switch for that too?

They did, it's called the ABS fuse. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

A switch could easily be added to engage the brake lights and accomplish this without touching the brake.

[PARAGON]

Originally posted by Dewi2005:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H2 Rocks:
Cool. I didn't realize TC2 allows for more rpm's before the brake engages. I thought it turned the Traction control off completely. When I'm in sand and mud I turn TC2 on and drive in 4 lo, 2nd gear cuz it gets me moving quicker than 4hi, 1st gear. Especially on steep hills.
The only thing that turns it off completely is the brake light. Couldn't they give us a switch for that too?

They did, it's called the ABS fuse. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

A switch could easily be added to engage the brake lights and accomplish this without touching the brake. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Not quite that simple.

It's not the brake lights that give it the signal. It's the switch on the brake pedal arm that disengages the shifter interlock, engages the switch for the brake lights and tells the BUS system that brakes are being applied.

[PARAGON]

Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
It's not the brake lights that give it the signal. It's the switch on the brake pedal arm that disengages the shifter interlock, engages the switch for the brake lights and tells the BUS system that brakes are being applied.

Still be pretty simple, just have a switch wired to bypass the pedal switch. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I haven't actually looked at the wiring diagram for this, but since it is the ABS, I was thinking it is on the CLASS II system, so it might not be that easy.

You might lose other functions also. So I would study the wiring diagram before I went to splicing.

[CO Hummer]

Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
the little bumpers in parking lots

Can everyone please make sure they do not post pictures of themselves doing this, they will be on Jeep forums all over the World in the blink of an eye

If you break a tie rod doing it, please remain silent </div></BLOCKQUOTE>



I busted a gut when I read that, Phil.

[ROX]

Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H2 Rocks:
I didn't realize TC2 allows for more rpm's before the brake engages.

Technically it allows for more wheel spin. The rpm's still seem to be limted to around 2000. When I have a wheel spinning in sand, I can floor it and barely move, not because my wheel is spinning, but because it won't give me any more engine rpms. Covering the brake cures this. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I could swear that my rpm's are higher then 2k, because I couldn't complete some of the dunes if I was going any slower.
Maybe that's why I don't use 4hi lock, I think it goes too slow, and 4 lo allows me to get more rpms? Now I'm going to have to go to the beach.

Paragon; 10-4 on the ABS fuse. Thanks.