Bio-Diesel H1

[dochummer]

Ok, so a nearby dealership just got a 97.5 slantback in from alaska. I've been thinking about the possibility of trading in the H2 for the H1. With the ramblings in my head, I've decided if I were to do that, I would like to run it on bio-diesel / B100. I've looked at SVO/WVO and stuff, but I don't feel like adding tanks/modifying the engine. Has anybody had experience with running a vehicle on B100?

I'm thinking I could hit up the local asian restaurants and mom/pop restaurants for the oil, and then purchase a mixer kit ($4k) to mix it up. The only concern would be storage (in the garage?) and cold weather operation. I know you can purchase additives for cold weather...but not sure on cost.

Any comments would be appreciated....

[dochummer]

Ok, so a nearby dealership just got a 97.5 slantback in from alaska. I've been thinking about the possibility of trading in the H2 for the H1. With the ramblings in my head, I've decided if I were to do that, I would like to run it on bio-diesel / B100. I've looked at SVO/WVO and stuff, but I don't feel like adding tanks/modifying the engine. Has anybody had experience with running a vehicle on B100?

I'm thinking I could hit up the local asian restaurants and mom/pop restaurants for the oil, and then purchase a mixer kit ($4k) to mix it up. The only concern would be storage (in the garage?) and cold weather operation. I know you can purchase additives for cold weather...but not sure on cost.

Any comments would be appreciated....

[VTSTOMPER]

People are running it here in Vermont. It cost more...but people tell me they cannot feel a difference between the two. Also the exhaust smells like french fries!

If I bought it I would take the hub caps off (I don't think those are wheels) and then I would remove the sun visor, and mud guards!

[NoMoGMPG]

The Stanadyne injector pump and various neoprene hoses/orings cannot withstand the solvent nature of B100 for very long. You can run up to B20 with great results. It provides excellent lubricity for the pump and injectors, reduces emissions by up to 73% (no sulfur in veggie oil) and make for a much quieter startup and idle.

I have used B20 now for over 2 years and besides the first 1000 miles requiring 2 fuel filter changes (the solvent nature removes ALOT of varnish from the fuel tank and metal lines), I haven't had any issues even in -20 degree F weather.

[HUMMERDOGG]

All-

For general information on biodiesel go to:

http://www.nbb.org/

Biodiesel Basics:

http://www.nbb.org/resources/biodies...s/default.shtm

Biodiesel Definitions:

http://www.nbb.org/resources/definitions/default.shtm

Fuel Fact Sheets:

http://www.nbb.org/resources/fuelfac...s/default.shtm

Fuel Fact Sheets_Standards and Warranties:

http://www.nbb.org/resources/fuelfac...arranties.shtm

For information on where you can buy biodiesel:

http://www.nbb.org/buyingbiodiesel/distributors/

and

http://www.nbb.org/buyingbiodiesel/retailfuelingsites/

Hope this helps...

-Dogger

[ckhagman]

You have a PM

[pdxhummerguy]

Does anyone know a better injector pump to use that will stand up to using b100? Mine just went out and he dealership is quoting over 4K to replace it with labor. I dont want to put the same thing back in and just have it keep going out.

[ssgharkness020147]

Originally Posted by pdxhummerguy

Does anyone know a better injector pump to use that will stand up to using b100? Mine just went out and he dealership is quoting over 4K to replace it with labor. I dont want to put the same thing back in and just have it keep going out.

Get the truck the hell out of the dealer ASAP. I know the stealerships charge 4K for the pump, and that is downright insane. Send the truck to an authorized stanadyne shop. The pump will cost 1000-1200, and authorized stanadyne dealers should have a flat rate install of 500.00. Call stanadyne to verify that, thats how they did it a few years ago. Either way, its the same pump for a whole lot less coin.

What I would recommend doing is buying a pump with the "arctic it" installed in it. The arctic kit replaces the brass and plastic components in the pump with stainless steel and ceramic parts. The arctic pumps have been known to go for well over 250K without failure. If you have a hard time locating an arctic pump let me know, I can put you in touch with someone that should be able to provide you with one.

[pdxhummerguy]

I called a stanadyne authorized center here in town and was told that if you bring them thepump the charge to completely rebuild the thing is only $385.00. Quite a contrast to the $1500 for a new one that the dealer is talking about. How involved is the process of taking one of these off?

[ssgharkness020147]

Originally Posted by pdxhummerguy

I called a stanadyne authorized center here in town and was told that if you bring them thepump the charge to completely rebuild the thing is only $385.00. Quite a contrast to the $1500 for a new one that the dealer is talking about. How involved is the process of taking one of these off?

Its not that hard to take it off, but its time consuming.
You'll need to remove the following:
Doghouse and engine cover
Intake manifold (the upper part can suck)
Turbo
Thermostat housing (?)
I know that some people remove the AC compressor, but I'm not sure it is necessary.

I would just have the truck flatbedded over there and have them do the whole thing. The honest truth is that a diesel shop has pulled alot more 6.5 engines apart than your HUMMER tech. IMO that are more qualified to do the work then a dealership.

[hmcoleap]

You might want to call Stanadyne and talk to them about the pump; I never got any indication from them that the original pump should have any issues with B100 (and I never have had any issues with it) -- when I talked to them many years ago, they said they couldn't recommend concentrations of higher than b5; on the QT, I learned that was because they could lose their R&D money from the oil companies -- not because the OEM Stanadyne pump has issues with B100.

Originally Posted by pdxhummerguy

Does anyone know a better injector pump to use that will stand up to using b100? Mine just went out and he dealership is quoting over 4K to replace it with labor. I dont want to put the same thing back in and just have it keep going out.

[pdxhummerguy]

Amazing! I did a little research and here is what I have found. The dealreship quoted a $4600.00 total bill for an injector pump replacement including labor. I called a local shop and was quoted $2500.00. the other option is for basically $1000 labor I can have the other shop pull the old IP and then a diesel shop in town will reman in it a couple of days for about $385.00. Now the dearlership has told me that the heater core has gone out and it will be $1800.00 for a new one of those including install. Again checked with another source and looks like it's $700 for the labor and about $300 for the core. I am pretty much offended that the dealership would even think of charging this much. I mean I understand extreme mark-ups but am I the only one that feels this is borderline insulting?

[ssgharkness020147]

Around 1500.00 for an IP pump is reasonable, give or take a couple hundred.

As far the heater core, I've been there. I believe my local dealer does that job for around 2K, but I do not send my truck to them for any service work. I bought my new heater core for 330.00 and had it installed for 485.00, right around where you were quoted. Isn't it amazing how much money you save when its not done by the dealer.

[pdxhummerguy]

it is nuts for sure. I actually went out on a limb and called my service advisor at the dealership and just laid down the facts for them. I told them that I lied the work they had been doing but I just could not justify the higher prices that they had been charging me. I politely asked if they would like to match or beat the other quotes and retain me as a customer and low and behold the answer was yes, they would match the other quotes.

[ssgharkness020147]

Holy sh!t! I have never heard of a dealer be willing to match prices. Props to them.

I had a falling out with my service dept about four years ago. My first visit there I spent over 4K. OK, fine I knew it wasn't going to be cheap to keep. I continued to send the truck their way, spent more money. As time wore on I became less and less satisfied with the quality of their work, and even more frustrated at their lack of customer service.

The final straw for me was sending them the truck for a T-case recall; I had to fight with them tooth and nail to get them to perform the recall at no charge, and had to go as far as to call HUMMER corporate and force them to honor it. Upon picking the truck up after having the recall performed it was very obvious that they didn't exactly give it 100%. The T-case had been pried open with a screw driver, the exhaust shields were rattling like crazy, they tried to con my out of 400.00 for a new tire that they "couldn't balance", and the shifter button was broken.

I politely told the service writer that I was less than thrilled with the quality of the work my truck got when it was last in the shop, that I had spent a good chunk of change in there, and I wanted the issues I was having taken care of. I had them fix the exhaust, had another shop balance the tire, and told them to fix the shifter button. I was told that they would fix it.... For about a grand.

I informed the service writer that the button worked fine when the truck was dropped off, had never given me a problem, and that I expected it fixed free of charge. He told me no, I told him either fix it or I'm walking and I wont be back to your service department again. Four years later... I have yet to return.

[phazer42]

just FYI....

I have talked to one of the original Engineers on the Stanadyne Injection Pump for the 6.2 and 6.5L's and he stated that the IP wasn't originally designed for use in Bio, BUT, through testing has proven that it doesn't cause harm within the system.

There was recently (a few months anyhow) a post on the HML regarding a lubricity study posted on another forum (thedieselplace.com) showing that the Bio was the best solution to lubricate your fuel system componets - better then the Stanadyne additive.... 2% bio or greater is the best for lubricity.....

[pdxhummerguy]

So i am in need of a schematic of the H1. I am looking into not only having a larger tank fabricated for it and would like to see what I can do but also need to know how much clearance I have between the top of the tank and the underside of the vehicle. Let me know if anyone has or knows where to get these.

[phazer42]

what year truck do you have??

Really.... the best solution for a Hummer to make more fuel volume is the following....

with dual, stock, tanks.... get dual fender well tanks. So, you would have the RH fender tank feeding the main fuel tank, and the LH fender tank feeding the aux tank. I believe the fender tanks are like 17 gallons each which would give you 76 Gallons in capacity (unless you have an alpha) which should be plenty!!

Personally, I would place check valves on the inlets to the main and aux fuel tanks so when off-roading you can't get the fuel to "find" its way into one of your "new" tanks when you are on steep grades.....

this would also require you to have your exhuast dump out in front of the LH rear wheel similar to a Humvee....

[ssgharkness020147]

You could also do a two inch body lift, and probably put the Alpha tanks in. The reason I say probably is because I am not positive they will just fit.

[pdxhummerguy]

Originally Posted by phazer42

what year truck do you have??

Really.... the best solution for a Hummer to make more fuel volume is the following....

with dual, stock, tanks.... get dual fender well tanks. So, you would have the RH fender tank feeding the main fuel tank, and the LH fender tank feeding the aux tank. I believe the fender tanks are like 17 gallons each which would give you 76 Gallons in capacity (unless you have an alpha) which should be plenty!!

Personally, I would place check valves on the inlets to the main and aux fuel tanks so when off-roading you can't get the fuel to "find" its way into one of your "new" tanks when you are on steep grades.....

this would also require you to have your exhuast dump out in front of the LH rear wheel similar to a Humvee....

My truck is a 2002. I would like to not have to raise the truck and am hoping for the schematics as I would like to possibly have something custom built.