Oil Change

[H2bill]

Getting ready to do my first oil change on my '06 H2 (5,000 miles). I haven't even crawled under it yet to look, but is it pretty straight forward? Do any skid plates need to come off? Does the drain plug have a crush washer or anything I need to have on hand before I start? How hard is the oil filter to get to? In other words, is it entirely straight forward with no surprises?

I did do a search, but didn't find these answers. Thanks for any info/help.

[MONSTERMATT]

You should prolly fashion a piece of cardboard to drain the oil from where the filter is, just slide it in there between the skid plate, if u dont you will get the oil all over everywhere, or take the skid plate off, other than that u should be cool, suprised "search" function yielded no results

[Dug]

A plastic oil filter socket might help you spin the filter off better than a strap type filter wrench. It is a plastic cup that fits on the bottom of the oil filter and you put a 3/8" wratchet in the bottom and spin the filter off. Also , i think the oil plug is 15mm. doug

[h2co-pilot]

1. What you need: 6 quarts of 5W-30, oil filter, tool to loosen/tighten filter, wrench (15mm or adjustable), tin foil, container for old oil, funnel, lots of rags, 1/2 hour.

2. What you don't need: to jack up the H2, or remove underbody protection.

3. Drive around the block a couple times first (my dad always told me this stirs up any particles settling on the bottom). But don't change your oil after driving over 5 miles. Oil will be scaulding hot (and you will be touching it).

3. Put down rags and the container w/funnel in place. Hard to find a container that holds 6 quarts and fits under the H2. The plastic container for "Tidey Cat" kitty litter works perfectly with a funnel on top. Otherwise use a bucket.

4. Loosen the oil plug nut SLOWLY. Since the hole faces sideways (not down) oil shoots out 6 inches and winds up skimming off the funnel all over. When the nut is ready to come out, keep it there to regulate. After a quart comes out, you can remove the nut completely and let it drain. Put the nut back on.

5. Next remove the oil filter, and be aware that over a pint of oil will spill. Simple solution. Take one foot of tin foil and cover what's next to and under the filter and shape the foil so it funnels the spillage into your container. Loosen the filter (need the tool designed for this), let it drain, then remove it and put it in a rag to dispose. Put the new filter on and tighten.

6. Open the hood, look for the cap that says oil/5W-30, put in your 6 quarts and your done.



Courtesy of Zing. http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=889

[GLBLWARMR]

Yeah it is straight forward. Use one of the rectangle drain pans. I always misjudge the placement of the cirle pans and end up shooting oil all over the floor.

[MDimitri]

VERY IMPORTANT: Do not forget to put some oil on the ring seal of the new oil filter prior to placing it back on the engine...if you do not do this you might as well buy a hammer drill for the next time you remove the filter. If oil is not applied to this rubber seal it will bind and practically glue itself to the hot engine making it very very hard to remove at your next oil change.

[H2bill]

Thanks everyone. That's exactly the info I was looking for. Now does anyone know the correct torque setting for the drain bolt? (I know, I'm anal. It comes from doing the service on my BMW motorcycle. )

[H2Buff]

Originally Posted by H2bill

Thanks everyone. That's exactly the info I was looking for. Now does anyone know the correct torque setting for the drain bolt? (I know, I'm anal. It comes from doing the service on my BMW motorcycle. )

Judging by my last oil change at the dealer, they prefer to just tighten it "finger tight".

[Humdingah]

Originally Posted by H2bill

Thanks everyone. That's exactly the info I was looking for. Now does anyone know the correct torque setting for the drain bolt? (I know, I'm anal. It comes from doing the service on my BMW motorcycle. )

18 ft.-lbs. if memory serves me correctly...I use a torque wrench on mine too. The oil filter is supposed to be 22 ft.-lbs. but that's almost two full turns after gasket contact...I usually just use an oil filter wrench and go one full turn after gasket contact. Haven't had an issue with either yet.

[h2co-pilot]

Originally Posted by H2bill

Thanks everyone. That's exactly the info I was looking for. Now does anyone know the correct torque setting for the drain bolt? (I know, I'm anal. It comes from doing the service on my BMW motorcycle. )

Picky!!!

[TXSUT]

Originally Posted by H2Buff

Judging by my last oil change at the dealer, they prefer to just tighten it "finger tight".

On the drain bolt???

[GLBLWARMR]

I do it the backyard mechanics way. I finger tighten the drain bolt till it stops then I 1/2-3/4 turn the bolt till it stops. For the oil filter. I fill the oil filter about 1/2 full with oil and then lube the ring. I will hand tighten it till it stops and then use a little more force till it stops again. This has never failed me yet. I use torque wrenches when the more precise specifications are needed.

[working Hummer]

OR, you could pay $10.00 more and have it done for you. Then it gets greased also. Good God who does there own oil change in the modern world? Sorry didn't mean to blow up.

[GLBLWARMR]

Originally Posted by working Hummer

OR, you could pay $10.00 more and have it done for you. Then it gets greeced also. Good God who does there own oil change in the modern world? Sorry didn't mean to blow up.

I do, I buy more beer with the money I save.

[H2bill]

Originally Posted by working Hummer

OR, you could pay $10.00 more and have it done for you. Then it gets greased also. Good God who does there own oil change in the modern world?

That would be me. It's not because I can't afford the extra few bucks, but it's all about knowing it's done right and getting familiar with your vehicle. Lubing it yourself also allows you to look underneath and check for wear and tear. You'd be surprised if you ask around how many people have had stripped threads on the drain bolt or filters put on too loose or too tight. I stopped once to check on a college girl pulled over on the side of the road because her engine light had come on. I looked underneath her car and noticed the oil pan bolt was missing. She had just left Jiffy Lube 1/2 hour before.

To each his own.

[DDWH]

Originally Posted by H2bill

That would be me. It's not because I can't afford the extra few bucks, but it's all about knowing it's done right and getting familiar with your vehicle. Lubing it yourself also allows you to look underneath and check for wear and tear. You'd be surprised if you ask around how many people have had stripped threads on the drain bolt or filters put on too loose or too tight. I stopped once to check on a college girl pulled over on the side of the road because her engine light had come on. I looked underneath her car and noticed the oil pan bolt was missing. She had just left Jiffy Lube 1/2 hour before.

To each his own.