H3 Oil and Oil Filter Change

[H2ummer]

I decided to change my oil and filter for its first time. I climbed under and starting looking for the drain plug and filter. Wow, the drain plug was there, but where the heck was the filter. A quick search of the forum did not yield any pictures to make it real easy. So back to the H3 and after pulling off the skid plate, there was the oil filter. Oh this looked like fun, getting oil everywhere. Anyway, here are some pictures for those that have not experienced this joy.

Tools needed: 13 MM socket for the drain plug and 1/2" socket for the skid plate bolts. Oil drain pan, oil filter removal tool, funnel, Oil and Oil Filter. I choose to use Mobile 1 (5W-30) and AC Delco Filter (ACDelco PF-61).


If you can get under your H3 without ramps, then continue on. If not get out the ramps and drive on. First remove the Skid Plates as shown in the next 3 pictures. 6 Bolts, all 1/2". Two bolts here.


These two bolts.

And finally these two bolts.



Actually all those bolts do not have to be removed, but only loosened to get the plates off. You should be able to see how this works.

Now get down to the dirty part. Use the 13 MM socket and remove the drain plug.


(To Be Continued)

[H2ummer]

Make sure your drain pan is underneath. Oil runs all over the crossmember as shown below.



After it completes draining, put the plug back in and wipe down with hand towels. Now move to the oil filter. Yeah it is wedged up there in the front of the engine. It does have a small built in funnel device to help to keep oil getting everywhere and it does work fairly well. I had to use an oil filter wrench to break the filter loose.


Get the drain pan in place and remove the filter. It does get a little messy, but nothing hand towels can't clean up.



Ok install the new filter. Put a little oil on the rubber gasket to help it seal. After you have installed the new filter and you're sure the drain plug is back in, put in some fresh Oil.



Before putting the skid plates back on, start it up and make sure you don't have any leaks. If not, shut it off and install the skid plates. Make sure it is level and check the oil dipstick to make sure you have enough oil. Properly dispose of the old oil.

This is just a general guide. I am sure others have their ways of doing it, this worked for me.

[fourfourto]

As read here months ago use a big freezer zip lock around filter after it is loose.
No mess

[lotus4s]

And a piece of cardboard or similar on top of the cross member to funnel the oil into the drain pan saves that mess too.....

[fourfourto]

Has anyone replaced the drain plug ?
Im going on my 5th change(Mobile 1 now every 6k),I thought about putting in a magnetic one.

after several oil changes its a good idea to replace the plug

13 mm bolt anyone know thread size

[deserth3]

after several oil changes its a good idea to replace the plug

I'd like hear the thinking behind that. I've never had a bolt wearout. I've had to go to oversized because of gorilla mechanics who overtorque the bolt and strip out the pan side threads.

Just out of curiosity, what is the recomended torque for the oil plug?

Good info. Thanks.

S.

[f5fstop]

Originally Posted by deserth3

I'd like hear the thinking behind that. I've never had a bolt wearout. I've had to go to oversized because of gorilla mechanics who overtorque the bolt and strip out the pan side threads.

Just out of curiosity, what is the recomended torque for the oil plug?

I agree, no need to replace unless pan threads are destroyed.

Plug torque: 26 N·m (19 lb ft)

Filter torque: 30 N·m (22 lb ft)

[H3slate]

Originally Posted by deserth3

I'd like hear the thinking behind that. I've never had a bolt wearout. I've had to go to oversized because of gorilla mechanics who overtorque the bolt and strip out the pan side threads.

Just out of curiosity, what is the recomended torque for the oil plug?

Most drain pan bolts have a separate washer that needs to be replaced every couple of oil changes. The H3 bolt has a built in rubber seal, it couldn't hurt to replace it, the rubber seal will wear out eventually. The drain bolts should be pretty easy to get from the parts dept. at your dealer.

Remember to tighten the skid plate bolts. I lost one bolt after paying someone to do my oil change. Never again.

[Mike E]

Thanks for the write up! As far as the oil filter making a mess. I double up some aluminum foil and form it over the top of the cross member and make a small valley to lead it into the drain pan. Works perfect everytime and I have NO oil anywhere on the H3 when I'm done.

[usetosellhummer]

How much to do mine

[H3.007]

And if you have an oil service center change it - like Jiffy Lube - make sure they re-install the skid-plate bolts. They forgot to re-install the front bolts on my plate. I didn't realize it until four days later, while off-roading, when the plate began to flap up and down.

I went back and of course they swore they replaced them. But they gave me $5 to go buy new ones

Despite their error, they did have a good idea to avoid oiling the cross member - use the skid plate as a splatter shield. They let the oil run down it into the funnel. A simple wipe with a cloth after the fact cleared any remaining reside on the pan!

[Wisha Haddan H3]

Nice write-up and pics. Thanks!