I have some service statements, in which it states:
...all 4 reduction boxes are so loose they need to be serviced and overhauled gears need to be tightened up...
Also, it had a replacement engine done this year. The engine was a rebuilt 2000 engine from GM. Do you think it might be affected by the #8 cylinder problem?
Rust was also very apparent on the body (lots of rust bubbles). Is this normal, since I thought most of the chassis was aluminum.
Any insights would be much appreciated. Thanks, Indy
H U M M E R - H2 / yellow / Adv. package / lifted / 37" STT's - 6.0 V8
Plymouth PROWLER / red / Flowtech Red-Hots muffler
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Corvette C5 / Millennium Yellow / 6M - 5.7 V8 - sold
Corvette C5 / Nassau Blue / 6M - 5.7 V8 - sold
J E E P ZJ / 7" lift / 35" Cooper STT - sold
J E E P TJ / 7" lift /chillipepper red / 37" MTR - sold
Mustang GT / black / 5M - 4.6 V8 - sold
Last edited by Indy : 10-16-2011 at 12:10 AM.
I have some service statements, in which it states:
Secondly, front shocks were leaking bad. How much are replacements?
Also, it had a replacement engine done this year. The engine was a rebuilt 2000 engine from GM. Do you think it might be affected by the #8 cylinder problem?
Rust was also very apparent on the body (lots of rust bubbles). Is this normal, since I thought most of the chassis was aluminum.
Any insights would be much appreciated. Thanks, Indy
Rocking back & forth while breaking is a normal thing for the H1 just like the sales rep said. But there is a way to prevent that and it is how you break. Soft breaking, ease off then again break.
Buy Cepek replacement shocks. Not a big deal or really expensive maintenance item. Certainly probably time for replacement on a 2000 truck with any mileage.
The rebuilt 2000 engine did not have the #8 cylinder problem so you should be o.k. with the rebuilt GM.
Rust just says poor maintenance history. The rear sections of the wagon are known for rusting but it can be prevented with proper maintenance. Any other rust is not really expected or normal.
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