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Good luck, Ed
I used to drive a Jeep, and its key cylinder was known to fail after a few years of usage from wearing out, gradually leaving the driver with stuck key that won't always turn to start the engine or be taken out.
The immediate and temporary solution was to USE A BLUNT OBJECT to KNOCK THE KEY INTO THE CYLINDER by tapping a few times.
You don't need much force. Just hold something and tap it few times with your wrist.
In my case, what I used was a beer bottle. I kept an empty beer bottle in my cup holder solely for this purpose for a several months until I had it fixed properly. Now come to think of it, that was not wise and I could have gotten into a big trouble.
I called GM Roadside Assistance to tow my car to the local dealer. When the Tow Truck Driver came out, he said he used to be a locksmith (Not sure if I believe him) and that my tumblers are all out alignment. Which is probably true considering when I put the key in for the 1st time it was hard and I could hear the pins. He told me to call tomorrow and ask GM to send out a Locksmith. He also said he couldn't tow it because it has to be in Neutral. (I know their is an override but I didn't want to argue and 12:00 a.m.) When I called GM to verify this, they couldn't understand why he didn't tow it. She said usually Locksmith's only come out to re-key and not to put in a new cylinder. She said maybe in the morning they can find someone.
I'm confused what do I do?
Thanks.
It may be in the tumbler but when the whole ignition switch gets replaced, then the cylinder lock is included.
As far as the tow... I'm assuming from his comment he was on a hook and not a rollback.
He did you a favor by not towing it if he was on a hook. Remember, 4WD full time. He would have trashed something towing it on a hook.
And even if he was on a rollback, he still would have had to drag it up the bed.
Of course, being in the bodyshop business, I see wrecker drivers drag shiet ALL THE TIME.
According to Alldata, this is what it says....
PartOEM PartPriceIgnition Switch Ignition Switch 12450251 $34.99
Replace 1.3 hours
So unless there is something we don't know about, yes, I'd say 500 is too high.
Mark
http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=25841
Edit: It has also been said to have a locksmith replace the switch versus the dealership.
"Today I finally decided to fix it and thought I'd share the info. The part you need is an "ignition and start switch" part number 15242754 and runs $38.50. You'll also want to ask for a copy of documents:
834551 Steering Wheel Theft Deterrent Lock Replacement
847831 SIR Disabling and Enabling (to prevent air bag deployment)
841952 Ignition and Start Switch Replacement
Start by pulling the negative battery cable to disable the air bag and then remove the bottom steering column cover, it just pulls off it's locking tabs.
The upper cover is retained by one male torx fastener. You can use a 5/16" six sided socket if you don't have the right adaptor. Then the upper cover separates from the column.
Then use a small flat blade screwdriver to press the release on the theft deterrent lock harness connector, then press the plastic latch to easily remove this part. The document shows prying it, but pressing the latch is easier. The same goes for the key alarm connector, there is a tiny release tab you can engage with a small flat screwdriver so it's removal is easy.
The rest of the procedure involves unplugging two more harness connectors and finally the ignition/start switch can be unslid from the housing. One thing not covered in the manual is the position of the key relative the switch housing gear. Make sure you position the new switch in the same position as the old one.
After you install the switch connect everything up and test it before putting the housing back on. If the key sequence is off, release the ignition/start switch and reposition the plastic gear manually.
I did a post-mordem on my old switch and it looks like they are using slightly different components than 2003. I think the problem with mine was wear on the white switch gear that didn't totally take the ignition out of circuit when the key was removed.
It seems to have solved the problem, I won't know for sure until a couple of weeks of driving have gone by since it was an intermittant problem. The whole repair took about 30 minutes. Hopefully this info is useful to others."
Last edited by Easy Ed : 01-11-2010 at 03:25 PM.
Thanks.
2 1/2 Labor - $400 (I'm in the wrong Business)
1 Cylinder - $65.77 Part # 15298923
1 Case - $105.77 Part # 88965342
Part # 15298923 $34.20 at Parts Direct
Labor at OrangeCrush 1.3 hr stated time and your $160 paid per hour equals $208.00
Equals $304.89 if you even needed the first part 88965342, $242.20 if you didn't.
Sorry, but they were paid too much.
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