Spray on Car Waxes

[OUSUCKS]

Has anyone used these? I bought the Rain X version last night but have not used it yet. You spray it on after washing the vehicle...can be either while dry or wet. The stuff has a nice coconut fragrance..like suntan oil.

[OUSUCKS]

Has anyone used these? I bought the Rain X version last night but have not used it yet. You spray it on after washing the vehicle...can be either while dry or wet. The stuff has a nice coconut fragrance..like suntan oil.

[Detonate]

Are you talking about a Gloss Enhancer, meant to be used in between waxing?

If so... I used a spray on by Eagle 1 or something and it looks great....

I had just finished washing my truck and spraying it down with that Eagle 1 stuff before I took these pictures. Looks pretty shiney to me.

http://www.elcova.com/groupee/forums?a=tpc&s=2826088551&f=2606011751&m=465602232 3

-Jim March
Arlington TX
2003 Red H2
Beauty is in the eye of the Beer Holder

[DRTYFN]

The Rain-X stuff is really nice for a quick wax. I used it a lot on my indigo blue tahoe and it work very nicely. Zymol has a new wax enhacer that's pretty good, also.

"I smell varmint poontang."

[DiscoDancingRover]

This is kinda different but what would you suggest the best wax would be for a oxidized and faded paint to try to get it looking the best?

Marcel

[H2 Daddy]

If your paint is oxidized and faded, your going to have to use a rubbing compound first.

You have to use a power buffer.

It also takes some skill to use a power buffer so you don't burn through the paint.

If you want more info, let me know.

I use a P&S product called High Gloss. Its the same stuff the dealers use for the show room cars. I wash the car,dry the car,then spray and wipe. Very easy! I use it on everything including paint,glass,chrome and trim. No streeks,and everything looks like the day I drove it home.

http://www.pssales.com/catalog.html

Here is the link for P&S. I have used products from all the companys out there and I always go back to P&S. Great stuff! C

First American Properties Inc. 916-858-2383
White 03-H2-LUX

[DiscoDancingRover]

H2 daddy yea I would like some more information. What brand/products would you suggest I use?

Rover owner, with light envy...

[H2 Daddy]

Ok Chris here it goes.

First of all you are going to need a polisher/buffer/grinder. I use a Milwaukee 7" heavyduty polisher. They cost between $100 and $200, but they last a lifetime. My Milwaukee is over 20 years old.

I use 3M products ans will refer to a 3M part number.

I am not affiliated in anyway with 3M, I have just always used their products.


Buffing lesson

Sling

Apply a small squirt of product to the area in question. You then need to spread the rubbing compound around with the pad or when you start the buffer the product wil go flying 360 degrees.


Burning through

You can burn through the paint on a flat spot or on an edge.

To prevent burning through on a flat spot (hood, fender side, trunk, ect) you need to keep the buffer moving. Never hold the buffer in one spot. Work in a two foot by two foot section at a time. Use the weight of the buffer at first and then slightly lift up the buffer as the compound be begins to dry out. You do not have to remove all the product with the pad. When the product drys out, you are done. Take a rag and wipe the remaining product off to see how it looks. You may need to buff it again. The main objective is to remove the oxidated paint. This step is done when the paint has a little shine, but not much.

To prevent burning through on an edge, the pad needs to rotate off the edge. Polishers rotate clockwise and this is important as to correct technique. Imanagine you are standing next to the passenger side fender facing the windshield. The buffer is pulled towards you along the fender edge. Since the pad will rotate clockwise, it will be rotating off the edge. If you were to turn around and have your back to the windshield and ran the buffer across the fender edge, you would be buffing into the edge. Once you try it you see what I mean. Also don't spend much time on the edges, two or three passes is enough.


Steps

1. Wash the vehicle first and then wipe it down with a wax and grease remover. Spend extra time and get all the tar off around the wheel areas or your pad could get contaminated.

2. Tape off any trim to prevent damage. Rubber trim will scuff and plastic trim will burn from the compound. Also textured plastic trim will fill in with product and be very difficult to clean.

3. Start with the medium cut compound first. Always start with the least agressive products first and then move to more aggressive if they are not working.

4. Start on the roof, hood, trunk and then move to the sides.

5. Wipe the vehicle off and change the wool pad to a foam pad (PN 05725, black colored)

6. Now use Fine Cut (PN 39002). Buff entire vehicle in two foot by two foot sections.

7. Wipe the vehicle off and change the foam pad to foam pad (PN05723, white colord)

8. Now use Foam Polishing Pad Glaze (PN 05996 for dark colors and 05995 for light colors). This step removes all buffing swirls. I have a black Corvette and you can not see any buffing swirls.

9. The last step is to put on a pure wax not a cleaner wax. Cleaner waxes have abrasives in them. You just got done removeing fine scratches with the glaze.

10. Clean out the cracks between the hood and fenders, ect

Your Done, and your paint will look better than showroom new


The burning through issue may sound scary but it is not hard to prevent. Just keep the buffer moving and you will be Ok. Practice on an old car first you you are worried.

Now, this might sound like a lot of work and it is. I spent 7 hours ploishing my 2000 Corvette and I only used the fine cut, glaze and wax , but it looks better than new. I will post some pictures when I figure out how to do it. The initial supplies will be expensive but, except for the pads, they will last several years.

[DiscoDancingRover]

Well thanks, if only I had $100 or $200!

Rover owner, with light envy...

[buddy]

H2 Daddy,

I'll second that. 3M products are excellent. I've used the 3M products to get those annoying sand scratches out of my 01 black Z06. No matter how hard you try, you're still going to get those surface scratches. They start accumulating the day it leaves the factory. The foam pad and 3M will get them out without hurting the finish as long as you don't get carried away. I like the 3M hand glaze(perfect II PN 05973 to finish up.

Wet sanding also works, I've heard of some owners wet sanding new vettes just to get a smoother finish or least get the orange peel out. Vette owners are crazy..If you ever want to learn how to detail a car, hang out with a vette enthusiast one Saturday afternoon.

I prefer polish to wax.

buddy

[H2 Daddy]

Buddy
I believe polish has an abrasive in it. I use a polish when my C5's finish only needs a touch-up. I use wax as a protectant. I will check and let you know.

[H2 Daddy]

Here are results of my 7 hours of polishing work.

[H2 Daddy]

next pic

[rifle]

I have used the Meguires spray on wax "Quick Wax" when I want to quickly wax my H2- the results are fine. However I have used the 6 inch random orbital buffer/waxer from Wal-mart with great results. I got this tip from the Miata club web site. It works fine, has not burned the paint, and costs $19.00. I got mine on sale for 15.00. It may not last the 10-20 years but the price is right and if you don't like it, it's <20.00.

I have found that before you use a machine to cut and buff the paint take some 3M masking tape "the green tape works the best" and tape around all the metal body panels including the window trim and anything else close to the area to be cut or buffed. By doing so you will help reduce the chance of burning the edges of the paint and damaging the trim around the area being cut or buffed. The bounes to this is that when you are done you won't have all that compound caked in the cracks around the hood,fenders and trim ect. Remember to always wash hand wash between using differend grades of compounds. As you keep using lighter compounds you want to remove all the residue from the last on used. I think I just told you what everyone else did but if there is anything you can use here that can help you its worth the post. C

First American Properties Inc. 916-858-2383
White 03-H2-LUX

[Batson34]

I know this is a late response sorry.

I have used Eagle One "Wax-As-You-Dry" and I was VERY skeptical at first but is works great. I wash my car then wipe off most of the water, then spray on the Eagle One and buff it out.

These products are only short term protection however, if you want to protect you paint propery you need to to a full blown old-fashioned wash & wax quarterly.

What is great about spray ons, is you can use them after evry wash, in very little time, without the risk of build-up. On areas like the tailgate where dirt grime and everything else collects and sticks this is a great idea.

Eagle One makes an entire line of car care products and they are all excellent (I HAVE NO STAKE IN EAGLE ONE) but I have purchased a bunch of the other crap in my time.

I realize many of you are not into the shiny glossy ride and niether am I but keeping a good coat of wax on your H2 will protect the paint that is hiding under all that MUD!

[Zyx5432]

The best place to learn all the ins and outs of detailing your H2 (and other vehicles for that matter) is the Autopia forum. It is dedicated to both professionals and novices alike that like to keep thier rides spic-n-span and protect the paint.

The website is: http://www.autopia.org

Check it out.

[HMSH2]

One word for all of you... Zaino. Simply put, the stuff is the best. I have used everything out there and nothing else compares in ease of application, shine, and durability.

Hood Motorsports

- 1967 427 L71 Corvette (99%+ Bloomington Gold Certified, restored to original)
- 1998 Lingenfelter 383 C5 (over 500hp and 11's in the 1/4 mile)
- 2001 GMC Yukon Denali (22" wheels and tires, extensive multimedia system, and performance mods)
- 2002 Cadillac Escalade (Wife's/Mom's ride)
- 2003 H2 (Breathless Performance Stage 2B Package)

[Zyx5432]

Another comparable product to Zaino is Klasse All In One. Both products are awesome, especially when topped with a high quality wax like P21s (or S100, the same thing but cheaper) or Pinnacle Souveran.

Some of these products may seem a bit more expensive than what you buy at Wal-mart, but hey - you're driving a $50 to $60k vehicle.

The pics of my H2 that I posted on the pic post forum were after a fresh detail with these products.