Torsion Bar Information

[humdoug]

I received the attached document from Truxxx Manufacturing and it does provide some helpful information on how the torsion bars work.

Contact Information:

Truxxx Manufacturing LLC
810 E 19th St, Tucson, AZ 85719
(480) 882-0717 or toll free at 888-660-5892 - Fax: (480) 993-2267
Email info@truxxx.com: http://www.truxxx.com


I currently have my bars adjusted 2 1/2 turns and I just ordered the Truxxx H3 Lift Kit. Should have it installed next week and I will provide feedback.

[wpage]

Good info,
I adjusted mine 2 turns and seems OK. Some lift to front end and no significant stifness noted. In fact seems the same ride so far. Thinking that if foul weather or catastrofic conditions occur I will crank it to the max to get up high to beat the water and come what may...
Regards,
W Page

[cestwick]

Originally Posted by humdoug

I received the attached document from Truxxx Manufacturing and it does provide some helpful information on how the torsion bars work.

Contact Information:

Truxxx Manufacturing LLC
810 E 19th St, Tucson, AZ 85719
(480) 882-0717 or toll free at 888-660-5892 - Fax: (480) 993-2267
Email info@truxxx.com: http://www.truxxx.com


I currently have my bars adjusted 2 1/2 turns and I just ordered the Truxxx H3 Lift Kit. Should have it installed next week and I will provide feedback.

I just read the Truxxx report and while most of it is true that style of torsion key is not used in the H3. The H3 has a key bolt twice as big and doesn't force the end of the key up as in other gm's, It pulls the key down as you tighten the bolt. One thing I have noticed with the H3 is as you tighten the torsion bars the ride ends up getting rough...This is happening because the shock is "topping out". I cranked my torsion bars up 7 or 8 turns and untill my extended BDS shocks get here shimmed the shock lower in the mount so it is not "topping out. I also built a set of rear shackles that are 2 1/2 inches longer then stock to raise the rear and inch or so to match the front. In this pic I have the H3 with 315 Coopers, torsion bars cranked and shackles installed.

[humdoug]

Originally Posted by cestwick

I just read the Truxxx report and while most of it is true that style of torsion key is not used in the H3. The H3 has a key bolt twice as big and doesn't force the end of the key up as in other gm's, It pulls the key down as you tighten the bolt. One thing I have noticed with the H3 is as you tighten the torsion bars the ride ends up getting rough...This is happening because the shock is "topping out". I cranked my torsion bars up 7 or 8 turns and untill my extended BDS shocks get here shimmed the shock lower in the mount so it is not "topping out. I also built a set of rear shackles that are 2 1/2 inches longer then stock to raise the rear and inch or so to match the front. In this pic I have the H3 with 315 Coopers, torsion bars cranked and shackles installed.

I believe everyones concern is wanting to know the "acceptable limit" a torsion bolt can be turned without premature damage to connecting parts or the torsion bar itself. We (H3 owners) don't have any long term studies or verifications. I believe most, like me, are just winging it and scared to go beyone 3 turns. You went 7 or 8. For some this may be risky, others acceptable.

Please give some addition information:
How long ago did you do the 7 to 8 turns ?
How is the current ride and do you believe it will be better with new shocks?
Anticipate any wearing problems?
Other concerns?

I purchased the Truxxx kit and it gets installed on 8/2/06. I'll provide feedback and photos.

Thanks for the input of the Truxxx report.

[HummBebe]

Originally Posted by cestwick

I just read the Truxxx report and while most of it is true that style of torsion key is not used in the H3. The H3 has a key bolt twice as big and doesn't force the end of the key up as in other gm's, It pulls the key down as you tighten the bolt. One thing I have noticed with the H3 is as you tighten the torsion bars the ride ends up getting rough...This is happening because the shock is "topping out". I cranked my torsion bars up 7 or 8 turns and untill my extended BDS shocks get here shimmed the shock lower in the mount so it is not "topping out. I also built a set of rear shackles that are 2 1/2 inches longer then stock to raise the rear and inch or so to match the front. In this pic I have the H3 with 315 Coopers, torsion bars cranked and shackles installed.

Wait......are you married????







J/K

[MxHonda]

Originally Posted by cestwick

untill my extended BDS shocks get here shimmed the shock lower in the mount so it is not "topping out.

What did you use to lower the shock top mounting position?

Do you have a part # for the BDS shocks you ordered?

Thanks!

BTW here are my results and findings from 1 year ago...

http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/s...hlight=torsion

[cestwick]

Originally Posted by MxHonda

What did you use to lower the shock top mounting position? If you look at the top of the shock there is at least an inch of extra shaft left on the bolt. I just put a 1/2" space in between the bolt at the top of the shock and the washer for lower bushing.

Do you have a part # for the BDS shocks you ordered? For the front a 55602 and the rear a 55719. both BDS #'s in the 5500 series shock.

Thanks!

BTW here are my results and findings from 1 year ago...

http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/s...hlight=torsion

Here

[Ipedog]

Humdoug - When are you having the Truxxx kit installed? I am very interested to see the results (I imagine that others are too ).

[DDWH]

Originally Posted by Ipedog

Humdoug - When are you having the Truxxx kit installed? I am very interested to see the results (I imagine that others are too ).

X2!

[cestwick]

I am not an engineer or expert by any meens but I am an automotive technician that specializes in suspension and alignments. That said:

The only difference between the truxxis lift and what I did is they use a torsion key that offsets the twist on the torsion bar to raise the truck instead of just tightening the bolt already on the truck. Both methods turn the torsion bar the same exact amount and put the same amount of tension on the bar and the rest of the suspension. They make it sound in their paper that you are making it easier on the truck but all you are doing is changing one little part at the far end of the torsion bar. The "only" way to raise the truck and not put extra stress on the front suspension is to installe a lift kit that keeps the ball joints and other steering components in the stock position and angles.

They also give you a bracket to "lengthen" the shock. "I" would rather save the $400 turn up the torsion bars and buy a longer pair of shocks.

[H3.007]

Greetings!

Is the above green Hummer (nice ride btw!) showing the Truxx kit or just the torsion bar adjustment?

Also, on the torsion bar adjustment, when laying under the H3 and looking up at the adjustment bolts (with one's feet toward the rear end of the vehicle), which way do you crank - to the right or to the left?

Thanks!
Chris

[cestwick]

Originally Posted by H3.007

Greetings!

Is the above green Hummer (nice ride btw!) showing the Truxx kit or just the torsion bar adjustment? Thanks on the truck.

Also, on the torsion bar adjustment, when laying under the H3 and looking up at the adjustment bolts (with one's feet toward the rear end of the vehicle), which way do you crank - to the right or to the left?

Thanks!
Chris

Torsion bar adjustment.

Doesn't matter which way you are laying you turn the bar right to raise and left to lower. all it is is a bolt...righty tighty lefty loosey

[lance-n]

Originally Posted by HummBebe

Wait......are you married????







J/K

LMAO BEBE!!!!

[humdoug]

Originally Posted by cestwick

I am not an engineer or expert by any meens but I am an automotive technician that specializes in suspension and alignments. That said:

The only difference between the truxxis lift and what I did is they use a torsion key that offsets the twist on the torsion bar to raise the truck instead of just tightening the bolt already on the truck. Both methods turn the torsion bar the same exact amount and put the same amount of tension on the bar and the rest of the suspension. They make it sound in their paper that you are making it easier on the truck but all you are doing is changing one little part at the far end of the torsion bar. The "only" way to raise the truck and not put extra stress on the front suspension is to installe a lift kit that keeps the ball joints and other steering components in the stock position and angles.

They also give you a bracket to "lengthen" the shock. "I" would rather save the $400 turn up the torsion bars and buy a longer pair of shocks.

I installed the Truxxx lift kit today. Did it myself and it took 1 1/2 hours total time. Not really a complicated installation but you better have some tools. The hard part was closing the shocks to install the shock lift bracket and inserting the bolts. The ride is smoother and I did get the lift as advertized. Tomorrow I take it for a alignment so I can see how far the settings are off.

This is the lift kit I used and it cost $449 + $5 for shipping.



The dimension from the center of the wheel to the fender is now 24.25". Stock tires shown 265/R75/16. Dimension from black skid plate under the engine is 12".

I have some belief in the statements from cestwick. It looks like the new torsion key design plays with the tension on the torsion bar. In fact, if you compare the stock key to the Truxxx key the internal hex is offset telling me more tension is applied from the start of installation. Again, the ride is smooth as stock. {maybe cestwick can provide comment on how smooth his ride is}. Unfortunately I am not sure where I am relative to the stock torsion bolt/bar setting.

Here is the photo of my rig! Its definately higher when getting in and out.

[Ipedog]

Humdoug -

Congrats! It looks good, very good. If you don't mind I have a couple quick questions:

• Did you do the install yourself?
• What is the distance from the ground to the top of the front bumper now?
• What is the distance from the ground to the lowest point of the front skid plate?
• What size tire are you running?

I'm sure that I'll have more questions later...

Thanks!

[Wisha Haddan H3]

Very nice ... I'm impressed with your setup. yeah, what's the tire size.

[humdoug]

I updated my original post with answers to the latest questions.

[humdoug]

Took the H3 in for alignment. Numbers were way off but had it realigned according the Truxxx specification provided with the kit. Ride feels good but still have some small torsion bar noises inside the new keys. I should have put some lubricant inside the key during installation. I did spray some liquid grease and the noise cut way down. I believe the noise will go away with a few rides.

Now my discovery. When we all made adjustments to the torsion bars, 2, 2 1/2, 3 or more turns, what did we use for alignment specs? Most, like me, will say "the stock alignment specification".

After comparing the "stock" spec to the "Truxxx spec" the numbers are quite different and the Truxxx spec compensated for the additional lift. This would indicate we all have improper alignments with "cranked torsion bars" and stock alignment specs.

Maybe someone within the forum world can give some expert alignment specs/details for anyone with torsion bar adjustments.

[cestwick]

Originally Posted by humdoug

Took the H3 in for alignment. Numbers were way off but had it realigned according the Truxxx specification provided with the kit. Ride feels good but still have some small torsion bar noises inside the new keys. I should have put some lubricant inside the key during installation. I did spray some liquid grease and the noise cut way down. I believe the noise will go away with a few rides.

Now my discovery. When we all made adjustments to the torsion bars, 2, 2 1/2, 3 or more turns, what did we use for alignment specs? Most, like me, will say "the stock alignment specification".

After comparing the "stock" spec to the "Truxxx spec" the numbers are quite different and the Truxxx spec compensated for the additional lift. This would indicate we all have improper alignments with "cranked torsion bars" and stock alignment specs.

Maybe someone within the forum world can give some expert alignment specs/details for anyone with torsion bar adjustments.

What are the "new" specs from Truxxx

[HummBebe]

http://www.truxxx.com/instructions/4...structions.pdf

It is at the bottom of the page...