Factory Subwoofer?

[UNOMYFLO]

I have done extensive research on this as I got the base radio and wanted more base myself.

Yes there are 2 different rear panles for the monsoon and non-monsoon systems.
The non-monsoon system's rear panel has a storage bin. The monsoon systems rear panel has a grate an no bin to make rom for the sub/amp.

The panel with the grate is not available at this time as I tried to order one.

I was going to source the monsoon parts sub and amp to add them to my base system. I actuall sourced and purchased a monsoon head unit. and almost had the amp and sub then decided against it...here is why.

I have heard the monsoon sub has a lifespan as all subs do but it uses a paper cone and will not last as long as the newer polymer/plastic sub surrounds. I wanted more base and a clean stealth install so I thought this was my only option.

I did some hunting and looking and this is what I did and am totally stoked on the result.

I went with a Infinity Basslink T.

I found one on ebay for a great price much cheaper then suggested retail.

The nice think about this unit is as follows.

1) it is all self contained including the amp that runs it. It has 2 10" drives and a passive 10" radiator. It is 4" deep at the top and 7" deep at the bottom and is a great fit in between the rear quarter panels behind the far rear seat. It comes with feet that snap into the base to give it a sturdy platform. They can be screwed to the floor but I opted against this and have not had any movement of the bx after 2 months...I do however have the rear H3 rubber matt but the floor is rubber anyway and you probably wouldnt need the matt.

when installing a sub and amp you typically have to grab a set of rca's from the back of the head unit to get signal to the amp. Our stock radios do not have this feature so usually an adaptor is needed speaker line to rca which I got but did nbot have to install.

The Basslink T has a feature where you tie into the back 2 speakers with speaker wire which runs to the sub, it does 2 things. 1 it send the signal to the amp in the Basslink and 2 it remotly turns the unit on when the head is turned on...very nice feature which eliminated the adaptor discussed earlier.

I grabbed the 2 rear door speaker leads under the pass and drive side sill plates. It was a bitch finding which wires went to the speakers but I finally did with a radio schematic.

I ran a nice 4 guage lead from the battery to a 100amp breaker mounted on the side of the battery box, drille a hole in the firewall on the drive sdie and installed a grommet and ran the 4 guage doen the drivee side kick panel under the drive sill. At this point I used a 4 guag to 8 guage block and it fit very nicly under the sill plate.

The 8 guage wire I tucked all the way under the rear sill and beside the seat and ran it to thr Basslink. I did the same with each speaker wire supplied with the basslink for the signal.

I grabbed a switched +12v under the drive side sill yellow wire and ran it under to the rear as well to the Basslink. I grabbed the ground and constant 12v lead under the dash drive side just above the floor light. They are stubbed out there for a trailer brake application which I will never need they have heat shrink on the ends you cant miss them when you look up under there. I ran them to the basslinkas well and that is basically all the wiring.

The last trick thing that I did was to route the remote bass adjustment lead don the drivers side under the sills and up under the drive side of the dash. I removes the center radio face plate and brought it into the garage. I pulle the left knock out which is there for fog lights (there are 2) side by side. I usd the left one next to the rear wiper switch. Once the knock out was removed I used stainless wire to fasrten in the remote base knob assy it was a bitch but well worth the effort because rather then screwing it under the dash to look like crap it is now a plain knob that looks totally factory.


Now on the performance. THE BASSLNK T IS FREAKIN AWESOME. I have made my own enclosures and done streo installation for years so it it not new to me at all. I have had multiple amp systems and have compeatd in ound offes etc. One of my best friends was a top installer in Ct back in the day and we did some insanee ****.


Well back to the Basslink. I set all the gains and bass boost just under half way. The stock system has a damn good bit of mid base and tweet but lack sub base totally and obviously.

The Basslink is an incredible addition and I barely have the remote adjustment over a quarter turn up. The crossover in it is totally adjustable and it needs to be fine tuned for your listening preference.

With the crystal clear xm the raw channel;s base is intense as well as all the others...but the nice thing is I can reach over the the dash and adjust the level to suit each song if need be.

So in conclusion for added base and a non butchering approach this is the way to go. The basslink T has been designed to fit behind the seat of single cab pick up trucks, but looks like it was made for the H3. I have it pointing towards the rear and when you pop the tailgate it looks intense. I keep a towel draped over it for 2 reasons. 1 to kep it from potentialy sliding into the rear plastic and marring it bit really to hide it from theives I also have the optional sun shade for the rear for this same reason.

I will take soem pics and post them tonight after work.

Hope this helps you. If you shoose this route you will be very happy you did. I am 38 and am past the BOOOOOOOOOOM BOOOOOOOOOOM days but every once in a while I find myself hitting it hard on the raw tip ya dig?

But on the other stations depending on where you have the remote set it fills out the sound field very nicely and is a super product.

UNOMYFLO