It can be buffed out!?!?!

[Hum2]

Hey All:

Don't know anything about "buffing out" minor scratches (not deep ones to/thru to the primer/metal.

Can anyone write up a simple process/procedure (including products/photos/suggestions) to help out. I've got them all over the vehicle, but none are deep scratches.

I know...they are just character markings,... but someday, maybe I will want to get them out.

Ric

[Hum2]

Hey All:

Don't know anything about "buffing out" minor scratches (not deep ones to/thru to the primer/metal.

Can anyone write up a simple process/procedure (including products/photos/suggestions) to help out. I've got them all over the vehicle, but none are deep scratches.

I know...they are just character markings,... but someday, maybe I will want to get them out.

Ric

[Dan]

Check out the forums at:

http://www.autopia.org/forums/index.php

They also have a great knowledge base:

http://autopia.org/kb/

[Fubar]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Hum2:
Hey All:

Don't know anything about "buffing out" minor scratches (not deep ones to/thru to the primer/metal.

Can anyone write up a simple process/procedure (including products/photos/suggestions) to help out. I've got them all over the vehicle, but none are deep scratches.

I know...they are just character markings,... but someday, maybe I will want to get them out.

Ric </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Ric,
The simplest solution would be take it to a quality detail shop.

But to address your desire to do it yourself. Any of the products listed below from Meguiar’s will address your issue. You absolutely don’t have to choose Meguiars for your product needs. I would suggest that whatever product you do choose make sure you open he bottle and put some of the product between your fingers, you need to make sure the product is not overly gritty. By gritty, I mean compare it to a paste oxidation remover. If the product you pick up feels gritty put it back on the shelf it is too abrasive.

All of the products listed below are all intended to be applied with an orbital type buffer or polisher.

If you don’t have experience with polishers (they look like a grinder) I would point you in the direction of an orbital type buffing wheel.

These units typically have a 8-13 inch foam pad that you place a cotton bonnet over then apply the wax or polish. They are much more forgiving, just make sure if you pick one up that it wobbles meaning that there is play in the circular motion. If it has a fixed rotation like a grinding wheel you can easily burn your paint. Here is a link to a unit by Meguiar:
http://meguiars.com/estore/product_d...sher&sku=G-100

They explain this wobbling as:
“dual-action polisher operates with alternating back-and forth motions that mimic the sensation of hand polishing.”

Now there are many types of orbitals and buffers/polishers I’m simply using Meguiar’s as an example. I am in no way affiliated with them but I have used there products professionally and for my own vehicle care.

http://meguiars.com/estore/product_d...olish&sku=M-82

http://meguiars.com/estore/product_d...olish&sku=M-83

http://meguiars.com/estore/product_d...mover&sku=M-09

http://meguiars.com/estore/product_d...ailer&sku=M-66

http://meguiars.com/estore/product_d...e-Wipe&sku=M-9
Stay away from cotton towels after you have gotten the paint to where you want it. Cotton towels leave swirl marks. Cleaned Cloth Babby Diapers work well for final wipe down if you can find them.

Just take things slowly use the mildest solution or compound you can find. It is always better to have to re-apply the product a few times rather than try and kill the problem in one shot. You are going to basically be filling in the scratches and this takes time and patience.

Best of luck.

[Fubar]

I've used it as well and it works fine. I'm not sure how well it would work with an orbital or if it is even intended to be used with one. I think it is mostly intended as a hand application.
My experience with it was to remove a couple of scratches that were a couple of inches in length. I just applied it by hand and it worked just fine in that application.

I was assuming this guy has pin-stripping the entire length of his rig so that is why I've pointed him in the direction of an orbital and its related products.

[Hum2]

Thanks guys!

Ric

[Fubar]

http://www.detailsupplyoutlet.com/prod_cat.htm?cat=3

http://www.detailsupplyoutlet.com/item.htm?item_num=3

I have used several products from this company in the past and had great results. I haven’t tried there Renu-it bumper gel but being a silicone product it should last longer than the oil based products like Armorall. You really want to stay away from Armorall or any oil based product for that matter. When the sun hits an oil based product it dries and looks cruddy plus over time it will actually crack the material it has been applied to. Now I’m probably going to get slammed for that comment but it’s the truth..as I have experienced. You should try and stay with water based products. All of the interior dressing products that I’ve use and that by the way Maguire’s sells are water based they will not crack or discolor over time if they are not kept wet. On that subject any leather treatment like Lexol or quality interior/dash treatment like ones from Eagle One and Maguire’s should fair better and last longer as a bumper treatment than any oil based solvent. You want to stay away from slick oily treatments the product you apply should soak into the material to not only protect it but add luster to it. If you already have discoloring my best advice is to talk with a quality detail shop in your area and get there opinion.

http://detailplus.com/detail_supplies.htm
product Lustre All
A water-based silicone dressing that is safe for use on engines; tires; trim and interiors to provide shine and protection for black paint parts; rubber; plastic, vinyl and leather. Contains both UV blockers for maximum protection against the sun's ultra-violet rays and ozone in the atmosphere. It also contains anti-static agents to prevent unsightly dust buildup

Products like this will be just fine. There are many places online to acquire quality water/silicone based products. Two other products that I have use are Turtle Waxes Black Chrome and Rain Dance Bumper Trim both of which work just fine but they are a cover up not a cure for damage.

[Fubar]

Phil,
Here is a picture of my 98 Niss that I just sold for $7000 using autotrader. I have always kept my truck clean but the engine had the usual dirt and grime that an engine might accumulate over time between detail jobs. The final dressing is that product Lustre All. You can see that it shines things up but does not leave it oily.

[PARAGON]

You really should stay away from ArmorAll types. Some might misunderstand because it is based off of some chemical that is a food grade lubricant called something like -dimethyl silicone oil- or along those lines. Apparently the problem is that it also has petroleum products in it as well and it's this combination that makes it bad. From what I understand they leach some of the self-preservation out of the plastic or whatever it is and replaces it with the Armorall solution. To keep it from "drying" out you have to keep applying it because the original protectants in the surface are gone.

I probably learned that from someone here in the years past. Maybe even you Phil.

[Fubar]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Reply </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks, I do miss owning and operating a detail biz. Due to an auto accident I just can't handle how hard it is on the body. The job of finding detailed, quality conscious employees is next to impossible these days. Seams everyone wants to do as little as possible and expects to be paid for doing outstanding. Perhaps I shouldn’t generalize it may just be an issue with Vegas as most folks that live here are transient so they don’t care much about anything.

I’ll stand behind my advice for you to use Lexol as a bumper treatment, it can’t hurt anything. I would like to see a couple of pictures of the bumper. As I said earlier if you already have damage or discoloring from products like Armorall just about anything you apply will only act as a cover up. If the discoloring was due to wax I could give you a solution but if it is from past chemicals the only thing I can think of that might help is to steam clean the bumper first. This should strip away everything you’ve applied to it in the past then apply a product like Lustre All or something with UV protestants.