Change your own oil?

[km406]

I plan on changing my own oil and filter. When I got under there the other day to check it out, it doesn't look so easy. Do any of you plan on changing your own oil and filter, and if so, what is your advice? Both the oil filter and oil pan seem to be up above skid plates. I also have noticed that you all advise switching to a synthetic. When do you advise doing that?

Thanks

[km406]

I plan on changing my own oil and filter. When I got under there the other day to check it out, it doesn't look so easy. Do any of you plan on changing your own oil and filter, and if so, what is your advice? Both the oil filter and oil pan seem to be up above skid plates. I also have noticed that you all advise switching to a synthetic. When do you advise doing that?

Thanks

[tacocat]

The oil filter may be easier to remove from above. I don't have one yet, but that is the case with many inline engines.

[woyster_h3]

I changed the oil in my H3 about a week ago. It wasn't as difficult as you might think. You do have to remove both skid plates (the front one with the H3 and the one under the engine). I believe those were a 13mm socket. Once removed, the oil pan drain is easily accessible and is a 15mm. The oil squirts out a good bit so make sure you have a large pan. When I changed mine the oil hit part of the crossmember and dispursed oil even further. The oil filter is located in the front passenger side of the engine, right over the front suspension. GM put a nifty little funnel type thing under the filter to catch the oil that comes out of the filter when removed. Just loosen the filter and let the oil drain. After it drains for awhile unscrew and remove it. When removing the filter does tilt quite a bit and oil does get dumped out. (Next time I think I'm going to punch a hole in the bottom of the filter before removing so that the inside of the filter drains out as well.) Then just reassemble everything and you are good to go.

I decided to go ahead and change my oil for the first time at 1500 miles. That should have allowed the engine some time to break in and then I cleaned out anything that might have been in the bottom of the pan. I went ahead and put Mobil 1 5W-30 CONVENTIONAL motor oil in it for the first oil change. My plan is to switch to Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic at 5000 miles and change it out every 5000 after that.

I definately think it is easier to remove the filter from the bottom. I don't even think it would be possible to remove it from above.

[km406]

Hey woyster_h3,
That is exactly the info I was looking for! Thanks for the quick reply. I thought you might have to remove those skid plates to get at the filter and oil pan.

Thanks again!

[woyster_h3]

My only question is...

WHERE ARE THE GREASE ZERKS!!!

The manual states to grease certain items yet there aren't any grease zerks. How are you supposed to lubricate those items without grease zerks? Am I missing something?

[tacocat]

woyster, I don't have one yet so I haven't poked around. I would check the driveshafts, the upper steering knuckles, and maybe the u-joints. There is a slim chance that there are fittings on the shackle, but I doubt it.

Most cars now use those greaseless fittings for all the steering components. I always wondered, "If that design is superior, why do aftermarket items always have greasable fittings?"

Check it out and tell us what you find. I am interested to see where the placed grease points, if any.

[woyster_h3]

I looked when I was under it changing the oil and didn't see any. My Tahoe has 13 zerks I believe and I checked the H3 in all those locations and found nothing. If anyone figures this out please let us know.