Transmission Running Hot

[H2 Ranger]

The "blotter test" sounds interesting. Now thats a new one on me. Sounds like the sticky lifters and the quart of transmission fluid to unstick the lifters trick. Mabee a check with the amsol and 25 dollars will give more exact information. Not to say it dont work, its just new to me. I would like to know more about that suggestion though. But thanks Phil, I recieved everything! From the looks of the pics I dont see evidence of the pan being removed. Mabee a few pressure checks might reveal something, but again I think a trusted transmission performance shop might shed more light on the situation. FWIW My exhaust is in the same location and you stated the engine temp is normal right? If you cant trust the shop do the show me the money and ask to see it in some form of publication and verify what they are doing. If they dont want to do it then take it eslewhere.

[H2 Ranger]

Phil, For the cost of transmission fluid I know what I would do! I totally agree with you. I think this problem needs more checks done. pressures and bands and new filter and oil changed. Mabee its worth it if it saves the transmission.

[Fubar]

Quote: H2 Ranger (FWIW My exhaust is in the same location and you stated the engine temp is normal right? )

Yes the engine temp stayed within it's normal range, while the trans displayed "Trans Hot" on the center console. By normal range I mean when the trans was at it's hottest the engine coolant never got more than the width of the needle above 210 however 185 is normal for my truck now with the 160 t-stat, so the engine coolant was affected by the hot trans.

However lets keep in mind my truck is far from "normal or stock" the S/C produces more heat, thats a given, a combination of a larger radiator, new high flow catalytic converters and 160-t-stat seam to have fixed the engine coolant run hot issue.

Depending on who you talk to about my previous run hot condition with the motor most are pointing to the catalytic converters being plugged and a continuing leaning condition being brought on by 1-3 clogged or partially plugged fuel injectors.

After having the passenger side head replaced because a valve guide got sucked into the head due to the motor running too lean and getting too hot on too many occasions, (although I argue the point too many) it was exactly 3 occasions and never driven for long under excessive heat but I guess that was enough to cause the problem. Having replaced the catalytic converts with higher or free flowing ones I probably could have gotten away with not going to the expense of changing the radiator or changing the t-stat, but it's done now and engine wise seams to be working correctly.

I don't think any one thing caused my truck to run hot. I think it's been a lot of things combined.

I'm just hoping the problem with the trans is easier to realize and solve.

Starting with a larger pan which will hold more fluid and a larger trans cooler if a place to locate it can be found I'm hopeful whatever is happening with the trans will be resolved.

The trans shifts fine, the trans operates at normal operating temps with city stop/go driving. There is no apparent slippage so I don't think anything internal is wrong, it's just getting too hot on steep or prolonged hill climbs.

Thanks again guys for all the suggestions

[PARAGON]

Originally Posted by PhilD

I'm not 100% that ATF blotter test is totally accurate, but it does seem to give a good indication. I always work on the basis, when in doubt change it. If ATF is very dark, smelly, or opaque, I change it.

The original dino ATF in my t-case went bad very quickly, and I change it every 10k now, worthy checking if you've never looked at it. same goes for the diffs, which don't ever require a fluid change according to the manual, just a top up. The fluid in them goes bad as well.

I've started using Royal Purple in the diffs and t-case and been very happy with it so far.

Completely accurate. It's a test that's used when evaluating oils and fluids for oxidation and breakdown. The blotter test lets you know that the fluid still flows because it spreads through the paper. If it is oxidized and gunked up, it will sit and not spread very much. They test how long fluids can sit at certain temperatures (mainly engine oil, tranny fluid, gear oil) to make sure it can not break down under extended use at XXX temperature.

[H2 Ranger]

Learn more every day and even more researching. Little more to the story than whats said:

http://www.practicingoilanalysis.com/article_detail.asp?articleid=355&relatedbookgroup= OilAnalysis

[HUMTECH]

did'nt read the entire post but if your trans is getin hot enough to throw A warning(not just by the gauge) and your not towing you have an issue. New trucks should handle any environment without issue when left stock. Adding A supercharger will not affect trans temp unless you really work it up A steep grade with A lot of added weight as any H-2 will drop to 3rd and no tcc lock up while climbing A long grade. If you are towing and remove the trailer your trans shift adapts take A little while to adapt but should still not cause A heat concern. Have it checked out while under warranty even if it costs A few bucks, at least they have your concern on record if it fails 10k miles out of warranty.

[Fubar]

Originally Posted by HUMTECH

did'nt read the entire post but if your trans is getin hot enough to throw A warning(not just by the gauge) and your not towing you have an issue. New trucks should handle any environment without issue when left stock. Adding A supercharger will not affect trans temp unless you really work it up A steep grade with A lot of added weight as any H-2 will drop to 3rd and no tcc lock up while climbing A long grade. If you are towing and remove the trailer your trans shift adapts take A little while to adapt but should still not cause A heat concern. Have it checked out while under warranty even if it costs A few bucks, at least they have your concern on record if it fails 10k miles out of warranty.

Ya the issue is lack of air getting to the trans cooler caused mostly because of the inner-cooler for the S/C blocking 2/3rds of the front gril. So one of two things needs to happen; get more air to the trans cooler which isn't possible due to lack of space to mount a fan anywhere or locate a secondary cooler somewhere else under the truck with a fan and two thermal dynamics dictates that if you add more fluid you increase the ability to dissipate heat, add more fluid or increase the surface area said fluid transverses and both will reduce heat.

Enough to make a difference I don't know. But I have to start some place.

If there was actually something mechanically wrong with the trans the run hot condition would be present in day to day driving and not only when climbing steep or prolonged grades. However the truck never downshifts while going up the two passes between here and CA. I've always figured it was because there is now ample power being produced by the sc so that the trans doesn't need to hunt for a gear to help move the weight of the truck. The trans will downshift if I floor it (3000-3500rpms) going up the grade. But keep the rpms around 2000 and it never downshifts.

Here's some food for thought; from Vegas to Moab 400+ miles there is a 9000 foot pass that you go over and the truck has never over heated going up that pass. Between Vegas and Ca there are two 4000ft passes and on each and every trip I've made since having the SC installed two years ago April the trucks trans has gotten hot. I don't get it.. It has to have something to do with the grade % and the length and the reduded air flow to the cooler.

I'll check with my local dealership but I'm almost certain they are going to say the trans is not covered by warranty becasue of the supercharger.