Torsion Bar Information

[cestwick]

Originally Posted by humdoug

I received the attached document from Truxxx Manufacturing and it does provide some helpful information on how the torsion bars work.

Contact Information:

Truxxx Manufacturing LLC
810 E 19th St, Tucson, AZ 85719
(480) 882-0717 or toll free at 888-660-5892 - Fax: (480) 993-2267
Email info@truxxx.com: http://www.truxxx.com


I currently have my bars adjusted 2 1/2 turns and I just ordered the Truxxx H3 Lift Kit. Should have it installed next week and I will provide feedback.

I just read the Truxxx report and while most of it is true that style of torsion key is not used in the H3. The H3 has a key bolt twice as big and doesn't force the end of the key up as in other gm's, It pulls the key down as you tighten the bolt. One thing I have noticed with the H3 is as you tighten the torsion bars the ride ends up getting rough...This is happening because the shock is "topping out". I cranked my torsion bars up 7 or 8 turns and untill my extended BDS shocks get here shimmed the shock lower in the mount so it is not "topping out. I also built a set of rear shackles that are 2 1/2 inches longer then stock to raise the rear and inch or so to match the front. In this pic I have the H3 with 315 Coopers, torsion bars cranked and shackles installed.

[humdoug]

Originally Posted by cestwick

I just read the Truxxx report and while most of it is true that style of torsion key is not used in the H3. The H3 has a key bolt twice as big and doesn't force the end of the key up as in other gm's, It pulls the key down as you tighten the bolt. One thing I have noticed with the H3 is as you tighten the torsion bars the ride ends up getting rough...This is happening because the shock is "topping out". I cranked my torsion bars up 7 or 8 turns and untill my extended BDS shocks get here shimmed the shock lower in the mount so it is not "topping out. I also built a set of rear shackles that are 2 1/2 inches longer then stock to raise the rear and inch or so to match the front. In this pic I have the H3 with 315 Coopers, torsion bars cranked and shackles installed.

I believe everyones concern is wanting to know the "acceptable limit" a torsion bolt can be turned without premature damage to connecting parts or the torsion bar itself. We (H3 owners) don't have any long term studies or verifications. I believe most, like me, are just winging it and scared to go beyone 3 turns. You went 7 or 8. For some this may be risky, others acceptable.

Please give some addition information:
How long ago did you do the 7 to 8 turns ?
How is the current ride and do you believe it will be better with new shocks?
Anticipate any wearing problems?
Other concerns?

I purchased the Truxxx kit and it gets installed on 8/2/06. I'll provide feedback and photos.

Thanks for the input of the Truxxx report.

[HummBebe]

Originally Posted by cestwick

I just read the Truxxx report and while most of it is true that style of torsion key is not used in the H3. The H3 has a key bolt twice as big and doesn't force the end of the key up as in other gm's, It pulls the key down as you tighten the bolt. One thing I have noticed with the H3 is as you tighten the torsion bars the ride ends up getting rough...This is happening because the shock is "topping out". I cranked my torsion bars up 7 or 8 turns and untill my extended BDS shocks get here shimmed the shock lower in the mount so it is not "topping out. I also built a set of rear shackles that are 2 1/2 inches longer then stock to raise the rear and inch or so to match the front. In this pic I have the H3 with 315 Coopers, torsion bars cranked and shackles installed.

Wait......are you married????







J/K

[lance-n]

Originally Posted by HummBebe

Wait......are you married????







J/K

LMAO BEBE!!!!

[HummBebe]

Originally Posted by HummBebe

Wait......are you married????







J/K

You did not answer my question :-)

Nor did you respond to my request for additional shackles :-)

[cestwick]

Originally Posted by HummBebe

You did not answer my question :-) Yes

Nor did you respond to my request for additional shackles :-) I am sure I could work something out once I weld mine and try them out this weekend at Timber Ridge Ranch in Iowa.

Not sure how many people are interested. I still have to get my shocks and install them. I also noticed that I will have to lengthen or at least arrange to allow the rear wheel speed sensor wires to travel the extra 2 or so inches that the shocks will allow.

Chris

[Ipedog]

Originally Posted by cestwick

Not sure how many people are interested. I still have to get my shocks and install them. I also noticed that I will have to lengthen or at least arrange to allow the rear wheel speed sensor wires to travel the extra 2 or so inches that the shocks will allow.

Chris

Chris -

Do you have pics of the sensor wire issue? How about the brake lines? Are there any issues with them?

Thanks!

[humdoug]

Chris,

What alignment spec did you use?

[cestwick]

Originally Posted by humdoug

Chris,

What alignment spec did you use?

I went pretty much with GM Service Info specs. I looked at the specs from Truxxx and they are pretty much within GM specs although they have a little less caster, and they have a little negative toe as aposed to positive.

Chris

[MxHonda]

Originally Posted by cestwick

untill my extended BDS shocks get here shimmed the shock lower in the mount so it is not "topping out.

What did you use to lower the shock top mounting position?

Do you have a part # for the BDS shocks you ordered?

Thanks!

BTW here are my results and findings from 1 year ago...

http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/s...hlight=torsion

[cestwick]

Originally Posted by MxHonda

What did you use to lower the shock top mounting position? If you look at the top of the shock there is at least an inch of extra shaft left on the bolt. I just put a 1/2" space in between the bolt at the top of the shock and the washer for lower bushing.

Do you have a part # for the BDS shocks you ordered? For the front a 55602 and the rear a 55719. both BDS #'s in the 5500 series shock.

Thanks!

BTW here are my results and findings from 1 year ago...

http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/s...hlight=torsion

Here

[Ipedog]

Humdoug - When are you having the Truxxx kit installed? I am very interested to see the results (I imagine that others are too ).

[DDWH]

Originally Posted by Ipedog

Humdoug - When are you having the Truxxx kit installed? I am very interested to see the results (I imagine that others are too ).

X2!

[cestwick]

I am not an engineer or expert by any meens but I am an automotive technician that specializes in suspension and alignments. That said:

The only difference between the truxxis lift and what I did is they use a torsion key that offsets the twist on the torsion bar to raise the truck instead of just tightening the bolt already on the truck. Both methods turn the torsion bar the same exact amount and put the same amount of tension on the bar and the rest of the suspension. They make it sound in their paper that you are making it easier on the truck but all you are doing is changing one little part at the far end of the torsion bar. The "only" way to raise the truck and not put extra stress on the front suspension is to installe a lift kit that keeps the ball joints and other steering components in the stock position and angles.

They also give you a bracket to "lengthen" the shock. "I" would rather save the $400 turn up the torsion bars and buy a longer pair of shocks.

[humdoug]

Originally Posted by cestwick

I am not an engineer or expert by any meens but I am an automotive technician that specializes in suspension and alignments. That said:

The only difference between the truxxis lift and what I did is they use a torsion key that offsets the twist on the torsion bar to raise the truck instead of just tightening the bolt already on the truck. Both methods turn the torsion bar the same exact amount and put the same amount of tension on the bar and the rest of the suspension. They make it sound in their paper that you are making it easier on the truck but all you are doing is changing one little part at the far end of the torsion bar. The "only" way to raise the truck and not put extra stress on the front suspension is to installe a lift kit that keeps the ball joints and other steering components in the stock position and angles.

They also give you a bracket to "lengthen" the shock. "I" would rather save the $400 turn up the torsion bars and buy a longer pair of shocks.

I installed the Truxxx lift kit today. Did it myself and it took 1 1/2 hours total time. Not really a complicated installation but you better have some tools. The hard part was closing the shocks to install the shock lift bracket and inserting the bolts. The ride is smoother and I did get the lift as advertized. Tomorrow I take it for a alignment so I can see how far the settings are off.

This is the lift kit I used and it cost $449 + $5 for shipping.



The dimension from the center of the wheel to the fender is now 24.25". Stock tires shown 265/R75/16. Dimension from black skid plate under the engine is 12".

I have some belief in the statements from cestwick. It looks like the new torsion key design plays with the tension on the torsion bar. In fact, if you compare the stock key to the Truxxx key the internal hex is offset telling me more tension is applied from the start of installation. Again, the ride is smooth as stock. {maybe cestwick can provide comment on how smooth his ride is}. Unfortunately I am not sure where I am relative to the stock torsion bolt/bar setting.

Here is the photo of my rig! Its definately higher when getting in and out.

[H3.007]

Greetings!

Is the above green Hummer (nice ride btw!) showing the Truxx kit or just the torsion bar adjustment?

Also, on the torsion bar adjustment, when laying under the H3 and looking up at the adjustment bolts (with one's feet toward the rear end of the vehicle), which way do you crank - to the right or to the left?

Thanks!
Chris

[cestwick]

Originally Posted by H3.007

Greetings!

Is the above green Hummer (nice ride btw!) showing the Truxx kit or just the torsion bar adjustment? Thanks on the truck.

Also, on the torsion bar adjustment, when laying under the H3 and looking up at the adjustment bolts (with one's feet toward the rear end of the vehicle), which way do you crank - to the right or to the left?

Thanks!
Chris

Torsion bar adjustment.

Doesn't matter which way you are laying you turn the bar right to raise and left to lower. all it is is a bolt...righty tighty lefty loosey

[zibby]

Originally Posted by cestwick

extended BDS shocks

Do you have a part number for them?

[DURAMAX TIM]

We've been doing these to the H2 and all the 99 up GM trucks and SUVs.

It just changes the a arm location in relation to the torsion bars.

No different tension/twist in the bars since they are carrying the same weight.
put a 300# bumper or a snow plow on the front then turn the bars up to the original level, the bars have more load on them.

As said before just have to watch topping out the shocks.

[H3slate]

I did the torsion bar adjustment today. Did two and half turns and gained 1 inch in ground clearance. It is getting an alignment right now. Any ride difference is barely noticeable and looks great!