F5, 2007 H3 questions

[hmrlvr]

Originally Posted by f5fstop

But to be honest, I do not have time to answer all these questions.

DRTYFN apparently has plenty of time
http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=20149

[Webster1]

#6 Yes the pipe is still crushed before and after the cat. This cant be good. Other than heat transfer what do you think the reason is for the crush?

[f5fstop]

Increase required backpressure. For 06 it was designed that way, I guess for 07 it is still required.

[ChevyHighPerformance]

Originally Posted by Webster1

#6 Yes the pipe is still crushed before and after the cat. This cant be good. Other than heat transfer what do you think the reason is for the crush?

My guess is the crush is for clearance to the torsion bar.

[wpage]

Mod your 06 air box by using a rotary tool to cut out the baffles around the existing inlet to wheel house. If your a risk taker cut a 3" hole in front of your air housing and run a 3" hose down to your starboard bumper inlet and make a cold air ram. You will be ahead of the 07 design...

[f5fstop]

Originally Posted by wpage

Mod your 06 air box by using a rotary tool to cut out the baffles around the existing inlet to wheel house. If your a risk taker cut a 3" hole in front of your air housing and run a 3" hose down to your starboard bumper inlet and make a cold air ram. You will be ahead of the 07 design...

don't off-road in water with that last idea. engine sucking in water is not a good thing...

[ChevyHighPerformance]

Originally Posted by wpage

Mod your 06 air box by using a rotary tool to cut out the baffles around the existing inlet to wheel house. If your a risk taker cut a 3" hole in front of your air housing and run a 3" hose down to your starboard bumper inlet and make a cold air ram. You will be ahead of the 07 design...

You can create a nice cold air path from behind the passinger headlight. You can open up the headlight box nearest the rad - don't trim the headlight supports. Then, trim the backside of the grill and cut a soft plastic piece. Kinda hard to explain in words, but you basically create a path from the air entering the grill and exiting behind the passinger headlight into the airbox area - I can reach in through the second hole in the grill and touch the back of the passinger headlight. I made an insert to direct the air through this area. I have an aftermarket intake and my temps are about 5 degrees F above ambient (outside temp based in mirror reading and inlet air temp read off an OBD2 scanner - IAT).

I've had this for several months and I've seen no water in the air box area while driving in heavy rain. It seems the heavier particles (water & dirt) go straight through the rad and the just the air goes to the air box.

A modified stock setup (bigger diameter nozzle, no baffles, and no resonator) is probably better for extreme off roading than my setup.

[f5fstop]

Not referring to heavy rain, referring to the 24 inch water crossing or deeper. If not going to off-road in rivers, then who cares. Off-road in rivers, and insurance will usually cover a hydrolocked engine. (I think )

The hazards of garage engineering for imagined horsepower gains too small to feel are noted.

S.