Exhaust,intake,throttle body spacer

[GotSandH3]

What all comes in the true flow kit?? How much does it run?

[Hunner]

Tuesday Sept 26 is when I go in to try the Colorado plate or make one. I will let you know then but they expect it to perform as stated in my previous post about the same as the truck. However with my other mods it might do better. They want to prove to me its not hype. I am a photographer and Im documenting their procedures for them.
This is the best site for info on the true flow but I found it at Carolina Trucks for $205. I could have made one but it would take some time and I was lazy. I have a Cummins so already new about the boots. I had everything but the little vinyl tip to block off that hose you dont use on the Hummer. The kit is for the Colorado that apparently does use it. I found a package of 4 at Lowes for $.92.

http://www.premierhummer.com/hummer-...ow-intake.html

[Hunner]

Computer mods are still in the beta mode right now. I found one laptop program but its $500. These guys use it for R&D. I will do some more checking.

[MountainBlue]

Originally Posted by Hunner

Computer mods are still in the beta mode right now. I found one laptop program but its $500. These guys use it for R&D. I will do some more checking.

PCMforless.com is doing a tune now for $199

If you want the exhaust open you need to get rid of the crushed piping in the downpipe, before and after the cat. And the intake, the part that is restrictive is the pipe that goes into the wheel well, its like 1.25-1.5" , freakin terrible. With everything opened up, the H3 does have more punch, its just the AWD system saps A LOT of power. I've heard its like a 39% driveline loss from crank to wheels.

[Groundpounder]

I had a True Flow installed last month. Nice improvement and good pick up. I had the muffler replaced with a True-Flow. I took off the resistor, however, at 65 the steady hum from the exhaust started to give me a headache after about 30 minutes. I had another resistor put back on. Now it all works fine.
I noticed the True-Flow did lower my RPM's. I am at 2000 at 60 MPH. And punch....nice to keep up with a BMW. They backed off when I hit the turn signal.

[Hunner]

Im aware of the "fresh air" thru the fender idea. Back in 95 the same company that is working on the air intake now made the one under the hood for my Cummins but after boosting everything else I added the scoop and the hole in the firewall at the base of the windshield high pressure area.

[Hunner]

It worked! Boosting 40psi it needs air! 300hp and 600ftlbs. I kept it down for towing. How would you ever control that in a Hummer?

[Hunner]

Originally Posted by MountainBlue

PCMforless.com is doing a tune now for $199

If you want the exhaust open you need to get rid of the crushed piping in the downpipe, before and after the cat. And the intake, the part that is restrictive is the pipe that goes into the wheel well, its like 1.25-1.5" , freakin terrible. With everything opened up, the H3 does have more punch, its just the AWD system saps A LOT of power. I've heard its like a 39% driveline loss from crank to wheels.

"normal" ratings are usually quoted at the flywheel or crank however you want to say it before the tranny, take away about 25% at rear wheels with an auto. So if your figure is right its taking a little more.

[ROADNOTCA]

Originally Posted by MountainBlue

PCMforless.com is doing a tune now for $199

If you want the exhaust open you need to get rid of the crushed piping in the downpipe, before and after the cat. And the intake, the part that is restrictive is the pipe that goes into the wheel well, its like 1.25-1.5" , freakin terrible. With everything opened up, the H3 does have more punch, its just the AWD system saps A LOT of power. I've heard its like a 39% driveline loss from crank to wheels.

I installed PCMforless Sunday, lots of fun. Hows this idea; take off the front drive shaft for M-F driving. I haven't looked under there, but it seems like it would be the equivalent of shifting an old T-case into 2H, unload that ~39%. If anyone gets to this before I do, be sure to mark the orientation of the flange/u-joint so you can return the D-shaft to the original postion; its balanced (for 100 MPH?). GM tried this "full time 4WD" ~30 years ago on the K5.

[ROADNOTCA]

Originally Posted by ROADNOTCA

I installed PCMforless Sunday, lots of fun. Hows this idea; take off the front drive shaft for M-F driving. I haven't looked under there, but it seems like it would be the equivalent of shifting an old T-case into 2H, unload that ~39%. If anyone gets to this before I do, be sure to mark the orientation of the flange/u-joint so you can return the D-shaft to the original postion; its balanced (for 100 MPH?). GM tried this "full time 4WD" ~30 years ago on the K5.

Scrap the idea removing the front D-shaft. Because of the diff in the T-case, there is no 2H mode, yet.