Exhaust,intake,throttle body spacer

[Hunner]

Computer mods are still in the beta mode right now. I found one laptop program but its $500. These guys use it for R&D. I will do some more checking.

[MountainBlue]

Originally Posted by Hunner

Computer mods are still in the beta mode right now. I found one laptop program but its $500. These guys use it for R&D. I will do some more checking.

PCMforless.com is doing a tune now for $199

If you want the exhaust open you need to get rid of the crushed piping in the downpipe, before and after the cat. And the intake, the part that is restrictive is the pipe that goes into the wheel well, its like 1.25-1.5" , freakin terrible. With everything opened up, the H3 does have more punch, its just the AWD system saps A LOT of power. I've heard its like a 39% driveline loss from crank to wheels.

[Groundpounder]

I had a True Flow installed last month. Nice improvement and good pick up. I had the muffler replaced with a True-Flow. I took off the resistor, however, at 65 the steady hum from the exhaust started to give me a headache after about 30 minutes. I had another resistor put back on. Now it all works fine.
I noticed the True-Flow did lower my RPM's. I am at 2000 at 60 MPH. And punch....nice to keep up with a BMW. They backed off when I hit the turn signal.

[Hunner]

Im aware of the "fresh air" thru the fender idea. Back in 95 the same company that is working on the air intake now made the one under the hood for my Cummins but after boosting everything else I added the scoop and the hole in the firewall at the base of the windshield high pressure area.

[Hunner]

It worked! Boosting 40psi it needs air! 300hp and 600ftlbs. I kept it down for towing. How would you ever control that in a Hummer?

[Hunner]

Here is a mock up. Im going to have to use a smaller scoop, maybe! I used a piece of an old grill on the truck scoop. H3 will need a mesh screen of some sort to filter out bugs, or not. Water will drop out in the box if it makes it that far or can insert a plug for really wet weather if it scares me. It should drop in the gap between the scoop and inner fender. It does on the truck.
I only have 3400 miles on the H3 I cant quite get up the nerve to cut a hole yet. I found that painting the scoop with matching paint made it last a lot longer. Just another crazy idea. I mean if you want outside air this will work. I will post pictures of what they make for my H3 Tuesday. They are probably going to make it an open shield type. Their idea is more air is better even if some of it is engine heated. The air under there should exchange at a good rate so we will see. I like the idea of the stock box for offroad. Just need to open up the thru the fender snoot. Im working on that whether I use the scoop or not.
On the Dodge Ram it was Ramair I guess this would be Humair? Now if we could actually use the fake air intake..............

[wpage]

LOOKS INTERESTING. Have you considered warrentee implications. For your intake ram. Have you though about runing a 3" flex tube up from your existing starboard bumper hole routed up thru wheelhouse into a cutout.
This would be less intrusive and also removeable when going in for service...

[wpage]

Originally Posted by Hunner

Here is a mock up. Im going to have to use a smaller scoop, maybe! I used a piece of an old grill on the truck scoop. H3 will need a mesh screen of some sort to filter out bugs, or not. Water will drop out in the box if it makes it that far or can insert a plug for really wet weather if it scares me. It should drop in the gap between the scoop and inner fender. It does on the truck.
I only have 3400 miles on the H3 I cant quite get up the nerve to cut a hole yet. I found that painting the scoop with matching paint made it last a lot longer. Just another crazy idea. I mean if you want outside air this will work. I will post pictures of what they make for my H3 Tuesday. They are probably going to make it an open shield type. Their idea is more air is better even if some of it is engine heated. The air under there should exchange at a good rate so we will see. I like the idea of the stock box for offroad. Just need to open up the thru the fender snoot. Im working on that whether I use the scoop or not.
On the Dodge Ram it was Ramair I guess this would be Humair? Now if we could actually use the fake air intake..............

Where you show your mock up. Is where your stock cold air intake is located in the fender wall. Look from inside your engine compartment. In the air handler there is a 2.5" opening that leads to a air conditioning type filter that connects to a air plenum (chamber) between fender and wheel housing.
If you cut in at that point you may want to 1st pull off your fender to be certain to enter where you should. Otherwise you may miss your mark and have issues...

[Hunner]

Originally Posted by MountainBlue

PCMforless.com is doing a tune now for $199

If you want the exhaust open you need to get rid of the crushed piping in the downpipe, before and after the cat. And the intake, the part that is restrictive is the pipe that goes into the wheel well, its like 1.25-1.5" , freakin terrible. With everything opened up, the H3 does have more punch, its just the AWD system saps A LOT of power. I've heard its like a 39% driveline loss from crank to wheels.

"normal" ratings are usually quoted at the flywheel or crank however you want to say it before the tranny, take away about 25% at rear wheels with an auto. So if your figure is right its taking a little more.

[ROADNOTCA]

Originally Posted by MountainBlue

PCMforless.com is doing a tune now for $199

If you want the exhaust open you need to get rid of the crushed piping in the downpipe, before and after the cat. And the intake, the part that is restrictive is the pipe that goes into the wheel well, its like 1.25-1.5" , freakin terrible. With everything opened up, the H3 does have more punch, its just the AWD system saps A LOT of power. I've heard its like a 39% driveline loss from crank to wheels.

I installed PCMforless Sunday, lots of fun. Hows this idea; take off the front drive shaft for M-F driving. I haven't looked under there, but it seems like it would be the equivalent of shifting an old T-case into 2H, unload that ~39%. If anyone gets to this before I do, be sure to mark the orientation of the flange/u-joint so you can return the D-shaft to the original postion; its balanced (for 100 MPH?). GM tried this "full time 4WD" ~30 years ago on the K5.

[ROADNOTCA]

Originally Posted by ROADNOTCA

I installed PCMforless Sunday, lots of fun. Hows this idea; take off the front drive shaft for M-F driving. I haven't looked under there, but it seems like it would be the equivalent of shifting an old T-case into 2H, unload that ~39%. If anyone gets to this before I do, be sure to mark the orientation of the flange/u-joint so you can return the D-shaft to the original postion; its balanced (for 100 MPH?). GM tried this "full time 4WD" ~30 years ago on the K5.

Scrap the idea removing the front D-shaft. Because of the diff in the T-case, there is no 2H mode, yet.