Rear E-Locker

[ChevyHighPerformance]

I made the mistake of not getting the off-road package so I can't just try this on mine. How about this. With the key off, disconnect the connector from the e-locker. Measure the resistance from the black wire (going to the control not to the e-lock coil) to a good ground as close to the control as possible. Zero out the probe resistance first.

[Hal]

I have the service manual and pages 4-150, 4-156, 4-160 explain the following respectively: Differential lock schematics, Circuit Description, and Electronic Diff Lock Will Not Disengage troubleshooting. I wish I could post this and have it be readable or be able to explain it. (I'm a Pharmacist not an Electrical Engineer) if anyone else can post this info for ChevyHighPerformance to look at we might have an answer.

[H3PAC]

Originally Posted by Hal

I'm a Pharmacist not an Electrical Engineer.

Damn it Jim!

[ChevyHighPerformance]

Originally Posted by Hal

I have the service manual and pages 4-150, 4-156, 4-160 explain the following respectively: Differential lock schematics, Circuit Description, and Electronic Diff Lock Will Not Disengage troubleshooting. I wish I could post this and have it be readable or be able to explain it. (I'm a Pharmacist not an Electrical Engineer) if anyone else can post this info for ChevyHighPerformance to look at we might have an answer.

I have these too. The control monitors the return. My question is it through a relatively large resistance to limit current (like 3 ohms) or a small resistance (like 0.25 ohms) just to monitor the current. My guess is that it's a small resistance, but I'd like to make sure. That's why I asked for a resistance measurement.

[DURAMAX TIM]

I'll do it sunday if someone doesn't get it done before.

[ChevyHighPerformance]

Here is the circuit I?m thinking about to remotely control the e-locker. First, there are many different circuits to do this function. I?m leaning this way because you only need a single wire to run to the remote control switch. When you use the normal stock e-lock switch, the light green wire gets +12 volts and the black wire gets tied to ground. This energizes the relay?s coil. The contacts connect the e-locker coil to the transfer case shift control module.

When the normal stock e-lock switch is selected to disable the e-lock, you can control the e-locker using the remote switch. When the switch is closed, +12 volts is applied and current flows through a 5 amp fuse, a resistor (depends on the black wire to ground resistance measurement), to the e-locker coil, and then to ground.

It?s probably best to not use both the normal stock e-lock switch and the new switch. If both switches are used, you go over 20 MPH, and the transfer case shift control module tries to deenergize the e-locker, the relay will open and your remote switch will supply power to keep the e-locker engaged. The concern is I don?t know what happens to the e-locker while the relay transitions from on to off.

The part numbers listed are Radio Shack part numbers. Do not eliminate the diode.

[wpage]

CHP,
Your concern on this mod regarding using this override circuit and the stock circuit is valid. There is a missing link in your stock illustration that would be the interrupter or sensor that opens this circuit when certain conditions are met.
Implementing this mod would not be advised till after warrentee expiration.