Keyless entry wiring

[marius]

Hello all,

I am having difficulty wiring the keyless Taplock unit in my 03 H2. I chose the rear liftgate unlock button as location since the 12v+ continuous is present at the power outlet back there.

As I understood the diagram, unlock requires a negative pulse and the unlock wire is the white one on the switch. Got the Taplock wired, tested fine and it works OK for the first 30 or so seconds while the Passlock light is lit on the dashboard. As soon as the light goes off the keless would not open the doors anymore.

I tried all three modes, single pulse, double pulse and 3 second long pulse and nothing. I know that the GM have the Databus, but I had this thing wired in the 2003 Tahoe I traded in and it worked there. The one difference between the Tahoe wiring and this one is that I ran in parallel with the unlock wire, a lead into the driver door for the alarm disarm. I was told at that point that it was optional so that the alarm would not turn on when I open the door. Since I need this as emergency backup only, I don't care if the alrm turns on and I didn't run a wire all the way upfront in the door. Not an easy task anyway.

Are there any wiring experts on the forum to give me a suggeston ?

What am I doing wrong ?

Marius
Granger IN

[MotorsportsAuthority aka Dragon]

Neat system. Let me know if these directions are correct and the wiring colors: http://www.taplock.com/wiring.htm

I can help you from there.

[marius]

The Blue wires connections are somewhat fuzzy. They say that One Blue wire goes to the "uplock" wire for actuating the lock - I understood that as the unlock side of the switch, the White unlock wire . The other Blue wire I connected to the ground because our B type lock requires a negative pulse.

In those directions, it shows to connect Blue and Red (12V) to the "Uplock" side of the switch. I did not do that. I was afraid to feed the locking system with 12V on a negative sitch side. Mistake ?

Is that what I am doing wrong ?

Marius

[MotorsportsAuthority aka Dragon]

Are there two wires (blue and red separated?) or is it just a Blue with Red stripe? Usually in those directions and "Blue and Red" wire constitutes a Blue with red stripe. However, from your descriptions, it sounds as though not. If they are separate wires, then the fused means that the two wires aren't to be fused, but that the red wire needs to have an in-line fuse on it.

Do you have a wire tester? Your lock should have two wires coming from it, one for power and one for ground. If the two wires read positive, then a negative pulse would activate the unlock. If the two wires are grounded then a positive pulse would activate the unlock. Most systems with keyless entries require a negative pulse, which if that's the case, it seems you've wired this correctly. Wiring the blue and red to the switch would not be a problem since you're putting a 12v on 12v. Again, just make sure it's fused.

Also, did you check your fuses? The 12v constant (Red) and the ignition on (orange) should both be fused.

If all checks out, call the company to see if the unit might be faulty now, or if they would offer any additional suggestions.

[marius]

I called them and they are no help. The red and the blue wires are separate not a blue with a red stripe. There is only one red wire in the harness on this module is the one that needs to be connected to 12V continuous. Does it make sense to apply 12V continuous to the unlock white wire on the switch ?
When I probed that wire it apeared neutral and became negative when the button for unlock was pressed.

The system as it is wired now, blue to ground and second blue to white unlock wire on the switch, works as long as the Passlock light is on (first 30-40 seconds) then the negative pulse from the module to the switch does nothing. Is it possible that i need in parallel an alarm disarm signal ?

Marius

[MotorsportsAuthority aka Dragon]

I'll contact some friends. It may be, but I don't understand why it would. I'll update you tomorrow.