Night Driver System and electrical questions

[marius]

In theory, how do you wire a trigger ? Do you need to use a 3 position switch , or a regular toggle , 2 position ?

The light bar I have has 2 relays under the dash on the harness. The bulbs are 100W halogens, 4 of them. I believe each relay controls 2 bulbs.

Marius

[f5fstop]

There are four pins on a relay... (there can be more...some will have dual 87 pins, but since they split your system into two relays, I'm guessing there is only one pin 87)
Pin 86 is normally used the hot for the relay and is used for the "trigger" circuit from the high beam headlamp, through the switch, especially if the switch has an illumination light.
Pin 85 is the ground for the relay, and can in some cases go to the switch, with the other circuit from the switch going right to ground.
Pin 30 is your high amp circuit from B+ (should also include a fuse as close to the power source as possible)
Pin 87 goes to the lights.

If your system allows the lights to come on at all times, pin 86 is probably coming from an ignition source, and you could just install the headlamp High Beam trigger wire to these two inputs on the relays.

However, I do not actually know your wiring, again. I'm JUST guessing.

[H2Finally]

Originally Posted by marius

In theory, how do you wire a trigger ? Do you need to use a 3 position switch , or a regular toggle , 2 position ?

Relays work just like a switch -- i.e., connecting a power source (battery or unused fuse in the fuse box) to appliance (lights).

Except the "switch" part is not a mechanical toggle, but an electrical one -- triggered by a current (ie., your high-beam circuit, oem DRLs, marker lights, etc.).

The advantage is the electric current going to your appliance does not affect the trigger. So you can have a larger current from battery to your new 55W DRLs, without being concerned of burning out the existing oem DRL wiring trigger.

Another advantage is, being electrical, the Trigger can be interrupted by another Trigger (e.g., a physical toggle switch), forming a logic.

E.g. --> DRL OFF --> Switch On/off --> New lights OFF
--> DRL ON --> Switch On --> New lights ON
--> DRL ON --> Switch Off --> New lights Off

I installed extra backup lights on my H2, and actually uses 2 relays to form this logic:

Marker Light OFF --> Reverse Light On/off --> Extra backup light OFF
Marker Light ON --> Reverse Light On --> Extra backup light ON
Marker Light ON --> Reverse Light Off --> Extra backup light Off

That way, when I'm reversing during the day, my extra backup lights will NOT turn on (since the marker lights only turn on at nighttime).

Obviously, your power source could also be additionally controled, either by a (yet another) switch, or if your appliance uses low power -- by tapping existing oem circuits -- which could either be Always-On, Ignition-only-On, or RAP.

Make sense?

[marius]

Perfect sense and got it done this afternoon. Installed the 5" fogs in place of the driving lights with another relay and separate harness but triggered by the factory relay.

Also got the tap in the high beam circuit fed to the relay and now I can have the roof spots with the high beam or just turn them on when I want manually from the switch.

Thanks for all your help, the ones that answered the plea

Now, what about that Night Driver system with thermal imaging ? Any thoughts ?

Marius

[emeldahay]

Anyone have a pic of these installed on the dash?

Been looking for good pics but the promo pics dont show what to really expect.

Anyone ?