Stealership ?'s please help ASAP

[CO Hummer]

Originally Posted by hummer74

My questions to you all are:
1. I've never noticed prior to now, that you had to backup to get the truck out of 4hi-lock. Have you?
2. Do you have grinding noises when turning slowly in 4hi-lock?
3. Don't you think that they should fix the horn (safety issue) under warranty? especially since they had to open it up to find the issue?
(how hard is it to wipe off grease when you already have it opened up?)
4. Shouldn't alot if not all these issues be covered under extended warranty?
5. Why do I have to pay a stupid checkout fee, to see if something is broken or covered under warranty?
6. What do you guys recommend I do?

1. No, that's is stupid advice from the dealer. You should not have to back your truck up.
2. No. You'll get chirping on dry pavement, but not grinding
3. That is lame. But it can't be that hard to fix it yourself
4. Ask Adam. He is the kind of extended warranties.
5. Because you took it to a loser dealer. Take it to a real 4x4 shop next time.
6. See #5.

[hummer74]

Originally Posted by CO Hummer

1. No, that's is stupid advice from the dealer. You should not have to back your truck up.
2. No. You'll get chirping on dry pavement, but not grinding
3. That is lame. But it can't be that hard to fix it yourself
4. Ask Adam. He is the kind of extended warranties.
5. Because you took it to a loser dealer. Take it to a real 4x4 shop next time.
6. See #5.

only reason i took it there is because they usually give me loaner car (h3) and what i THOUGHT was warranty work.

[Planohummer]

Oversize tires and/or different wheel offset can create the need to back up, but can also be caused by worn out shift fork. Ask the dealer to show you where you authorized the $99 check out fee when you dropped off your vehicle. If you did, pay it. If you didn't, don't. Almost all the extended warranties(even GM ones) have certain exclusions. Can't speak for yours specifically.
Wind noise and bulb are easy fixes(see other threads) you can do yourself. If you've got oversize tires/wheels, put stock back on before taking back to dealer.

[hummer74]

Originally Posted by Planohummer

Oversize tires and/or different wheel offset can create the need to back up, but can also be caused by worn out shift fork. Ask the dealer to show you where you authorized the $99 check out fee when you dropped off your vehicle. If you did, pay it. If you didn't, don't. Almost all the extended warranties(even GM ones) have certain exclusions. Can't speak for yours specifically.
Wind noise and bulb are easy fixes(see other threads) you can do yourself. If you've got oversize tires/wheels, put stock back on before taking back to dealer.

i dont have oversize tires on it yet, they're stock. i wanted to get all of the issues documented and fixed before i put the tires on, which should be this week. FYI, i did read the manual, and it actually does say that sometimes you need to back up 25 feet to disengage 4hi-lock. i thought the stealership was BSing me on that one. who woulda thunk it?

[MarineHawk]

Originally Posted by hummer74

i dont have oversize tires on it yet, they're stock. i wanted to get all of the issues documented and fixed before i put the tires on, which should be this week. FYI, i did read the manual, and it actually does say that sometimes you need to back up 25 feet to disengage 4hi-lock. i thought the stealership was BSing me on that one. who woulda thunk it?

http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=8711

[Agriv8r]

Itis not required to back up, but it will help the truck go back into the 4 open quicker. works on Fords and dodges too. Loaners are a courtesey for the most part. If your vehicle is required to be in over night due to repairs, then GM will provide a loaner. If it is overnight waiting on parts, they do not. Want a loaner from a dealer, be nice when you go in and promise/give good surveys. The service writers get grief from all sides, they can be extremely helpful to you if they are on your side. Although it seems petty to charge to fix little annoyances not covered by the warrantt, someone has to pay the mechanics. Sorry for the rant, but I hear it all day.

[hummer74]

Originally Posted by MarineHawk

http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=8711

thanks for the info marinehawk, good find with the search!

my point is, when i shift out of 4hi-lock into 4hi, the button blinks on 4hi-lock and then the 4hi button goes on and stays solid. if the gauges, lights, buttons...whatever, tell me i'm in 4hi and im really in 4hi-lock, then that is a problem. that should not happen. the only way im going to know if im still in 4hi lock is to turn and listen to the noises from underneath my truck, then back up 25 feet and try again. the stupid button should be able to tell me if it shifted between hi and hilock.

[MarineHawk]

Originally Posted by hummer74

thanks for the info marinehawk, good find with the search!

my point is, when i shift out of 4hi-lock into 4hi, the button blinks on 4hi-lock and then the 4hi button goes on and stays solid. if the gauges, lights, buttons...whatever, tell me i'm in 4hi and im really in 4hi-lock, then that is a problem. that should not happen. the only way im going to know if im still in 4hi lock is to turn and listen to the noises from underneath my truck, then back up 25 feet and try again. the stupid button should be able to tell me if it shifted between hi and hilock.

I doubt this will work, but my 03 Sierra, which had the same electro-transfer case shifter thingy, twice would not shift out of 2WD-Hi into 4WD-Hi (light would flicker and nothing would happen). I realize this is different than your situation because it did what it said (not shift), but just in case: I simply disconnected the battery for a few seconds and reconnected it. Then, bingo, it would work fine for nine months or so.

[hummer74]

it is the gmpp extended warranty with the major guard coverage. i think its the best you can get.

[Hummer Guy]

Originally Posted by hummer74

thanks for the info marinehawk, good find with the search!

my point is, when i shift out of 4hi-lock into 4hi, the button blinks on 4hi-lock and then the 4hi button goes on and stays solid. if the gauges, lights, buttons...whatever, tell me i'm in 4hi and im really in 4hi-lock, then that is a problem. that should not happen. the only way im going to know if im still in 4hi lock is to turn and listen to the noises from underneath my truck, then back up 25 feet and try again. the stupid button should be able to tell me if it shifted between hi and hilock.

This isn't as bizarre as it sounds... I will say that i've never seen this problem on H2s or H3s, but H1s have the same problem - even brand new 06 Alphas. You pull the lever to 4 high, but the TC lock light wont go off. Sometimes you have to repeat the forward and reverse routine several times. I have seen both H2s and H3s 'pop' into place in about 10 feet after the lights indicating they've been in 4 high. I'm always make sure I hear the clicking sound underneath before I gun it -- because it'll give you a pretty good jolt when it does engage. The noise is stress on the system -- 4high lock isn't made for dry surfaces with plenty of traction. Have you noticed a slight burning smell as well? So, the dealer was right and wrong. Should you need to reverse an H3 to get out of 4high lock? No. Does it help a sticky system sometimes? Yes. Do you get 'stuck' in 4 high lock everytime you use it?