Installed My Amp/Sub (Write Up)

[HUMMERcustoms.com/TAZ]

Just for info sake Dragon can help with answers on sound equipment along with security and most any electronics stuff. He is honest if he does not know the answer he will find it out.

Not just playing home boy cards here Dragon is very good as i have seen his work on my completely sponsored sound system for Our show H2 but, I have watched him do a one amp one sub install and takes care to route and twist wiring so it looks just as professional as the $20,000 jobs he installs.

Bryan@HummerCustoms.com or Bryan@ motorsportsauthority.com

Tell him TAZ said on forum that he should be the one to answer audio/video/security/etc. questions. He stays covered up but, tries hard to answer all the questions he can. My system was a complete gut of factory sound system except OnStar box and replaced with a computer controlled unit with all Infinty components. If they were going to sponsor the rig they wanted all Bose equip. out (of course). So I think 4 amps 4-12" subs in rear custom built enclosures, and every speaker replaced right down to the little tweeters down on the "A" pillar on each side. It seemed like miles of wire ran on floor while interrior was stripped out to bare metal and head liner removed also. When i say the rig was gutted i really do mean all things removed then redesigned with a few installs and alot removed for changes. Dragon is extremely picky.

Well anyway he can help if you can get him to slow down long enough. Best to send an email through the forum as he watchs for members foremost as possible.
Good Luck,

TAZ

[MVR 155]

I just added a sub/amp to the factory Bose using signal from the rear speakers to a line out converter..... its definately lacking on the very low frequency..... I too figured it would be a full range signal due to the capacitors on the bose speakers but you can totally hear it cut off on songs with very low bass... I even swapped in another amp and sub, changed polarity on the converter and the amp.... definately has some kind of cross over or capacitor somewhere else in the system.

I have the same set up in my TL and my Z06... I was able to run the signal from the factory sub in the TL but I had to buy a interface from PAC to get a signal in the vette (low frequency is not availible to the rear speakers). Can anyone here confirm if there is a good place to tap for low frequency signal or is it necessary to run a interface.

Thanks

Mike

[vlxjim]

I use the rear speaker output and had great luck. I tested it with my audio test CD and had no dropout in the low end. I use a one 10" Polk/Momo sub with a MTX amp tested at 488 watts rms at 2 ohms and over 1200 peak. Its crossed over at 80hz and if you turn up the bass boost with the windows up it feel like the windows are going to break.

[MVR 155]

Originally Posted by vlxjim

I use the rear speaker output and had great luck. I tested it with my audio test CD and had no dropout in the low end. I use a one 10" Polk/Momo sub with a MTX amp tested at 488 watts rms at 2 ohms and over 1200 peak. Its crossed over at 80hz and if you turn up the bass boost with the windows up it feel like the windows are going to break.

I wish I had your luck with it..... Im definately getting a signal that does not get the really low stuff, I guess Im gonna order the PAC AOEMGM24..... I will get a unmolested signal for sure that way.

Like I said I tried different different amps/subs as well.... I have all good stuff, I tried my Rockford amp, my alpine amp and 2 different subs in the H2 yesterday with no luck. The stuff I tested with sounds absolutely perfect in my TL and my Z06

[genob]

Maybe the older trucks highpass filtered the audio out of the stock amp?

Mine is a 2k7 and the signal passed to the rear was a full signal. I didn't want to have to get behind the factory stereo to connect anything (i didn't have the time to tear it all apart).

I made my own test cd which played a sine wave down to 10hz and the speaker moved (couldn't hear it though...).

I only installed a 200watt MTX (ended up running it at 2 ohms because i didn't care if i blew it up) in a decent size box i made with a kicker cvr 10.

Sounds nice, it isn't over powering...

[MVR 155]

Well I ordered the PAC interface saturday morning as well as the Nucleaus ipod interface, I even tried swapping out the line out converter with the one in my TL (figured maybe something inside the converter could have been clipping the frequency signal.... long shot) with no luck. I would assume by looking at the bezel around the waterfall area of the H2 it looks to be quite simple to get access to the head unit to remove it. Should have the parts in a couple of days...... I will report back on the progress

[MVR 155]

Originally Posted by MVR 155

Well I ordered the PAC interface saturday morning as well as the Nucleaus ipod interface, I even tried swapping out the line out converter with the one in my TL (figured maybe something inside the converter could have been clipping the frequency signal.... long shot) with no luck. I would assume by looking at the bezel around the waterfall area of the H2 it looks to be quite simple to get access to the head unit to remove it. Should have the parts in a couple of days...... I will report back on the progress

Wrote up a new thread on my results with the PAC interface..... Definately made the difference I was looking for