ordered lift.. what tires? ???

[6pack]

And, just in case you didn't know, you also have the Sway-A-Way (I think) heavy duty torsion bars. That's what I've done.

I'm checking into getting 35's also. From what I've read, they fit fine but you lose some of your turning radius. Not a big deal, I think this truck turns very well to start with. I can't decide on BFG muds or some directional tires, lilke ProComp or Mickey Thompson have. Have you decided what you're getting?

[RuggedH2]

I don't care what anyone does with their own truck. I personally would crank the bars up to level and spend some of the the Truxx money on the Cognito extended length shocks for the front end.

The Sway-A-way's are a good idea also, because whichever way you lift the front end, requires loading those bars.

I cranked mine to allow for the extra weight of the powerplant winch. The 35" Toyos are great off road, only rub at full lock, no matter how much the bars are cranked.

[TonyH3]

i am looking at a set of BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO's. I don't off road too much so i don't want to go with a full off road tire. So 315/75-16's will fit on the stock rims correct.. i should be set then.. just need the $1000 for the tires..

[tomp]

I'll explain why Truxx is junk, so pay attention as I dont have time to battle it out.

The stock shocks are limited in their travel, so that's why Truxx sells a cheap method to correct this once the TBs are cranked. Then they charge you more than longer travel shocks cost and throw in a set of keys that are not even needed. You can get all lots of adjustment out of the factory keys - more so than you will ever need!

Then, you end up with a "setup" where you ride-height is dictated by Truxx since you still have the same old crappy short-travel spec shocks. Like someone already pointed out, you need to use math to know what we are talking about here. It goes something like this:

-you extended the lower shock rod by pushing it upward into the shock body. Now, in order to get the ride-height at a level that is within the ride specs of the shocks, you have to set height based on what Truxx tells you to do. Be forewarned the front end has to be really cranked to fall within these specs. The reason for this is their design makes them create the bracket sooo tall that is has to raise it up high enough to clear the shocks' bolt over the control arm. Now, what Truxx does not tell you is that "since are are shoving the lower shock arm up into shock body sooner" you are going to bottom out the shock before ever hitting the OEM bump stop!!!!! Caution: big concern here unless you dont mind slamming all the weight of your H3 down on the shock all alone with no bump stop support!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! There is no known way to extend the H3 bump stops at this time!

Side benefits of the Cognito shocks are:
-you can set ride height where you ever want and still bottom on the factory bump stops.
-Since you cranked the ride height up and off of riding on the OEM stops, you can still wheel on one front wheel, collapse that wheel all the way to the OEM stop (since only one wheel would have most of the pressue on it) and then the opposing sides' wheel can droop all the way down until the maximum extended length of the Cognito shock! We are talking major offroad flexing capability here folks - much more than you had from the factory!
-Now, since you have much more travel, droop etc - your ride quality will be as good or better than it was from stock!

like previously mentioned - do the math - it all adds up

[tomp]

RuggedH2 added more weight, then added more spring rate to his front end with the sway away bars. Good mod, I'd listen to this guy....

Just wanted to mention, cranking the TBs does not increase spring rate as many seem to think. It only rotates them, therefore it sets the ride height. This is why ruggedH2 also opted for the higher spring rate bars - as he added a heavy winch on the front.

He kept the center of gravity low, increased flex, travel and spring rate. Also, increased gound clearance on the IFS and then again by adding 35s

[TonyH3]

this place has some super low prices.. wow..

http://www.tires-easy.com/start.html

[Dave92270]

excellent posts, tomp!

thanks for the detailed info - I also considered Truxx kit for some time, but I guess I'll take a different approach now

[Big Dad]

Wow tomp, I was under the impression that cranking the bars increased tension on them, and that they were designed/manufactured to withstand that tension in a specific usable range so to speak.

Increased spring rate equates to increased stiffness right?

Which led me to believe that cranking the stock t bars would lead to use of aftermarket t bars since they would be beefier.

I also thought that a set of re-indexed torsion keys was supposed to drop that amount of tension back to the useable range of the stock torsion bar, in-turn eliminating the need to replace the stock t bars.

I was aware that the shock travel was lowered with the truxx bracket but knew enough to replace the shocks.

After reading this I think I might just put the stock torsion keys back in.

Thanks, it looks like I need to do some more math!

[tomp]

Originally Posted by Big Dad

Wow tomp, I was under the impression that cranking the bars increased tension on them, and that they were designed/manufactured to withstand that tension in a specific usable range so to speak.

Increased spring rate equates to increased stiffness right?

Which led me to believe that cranking the stock t bars would lead to use of aftermarket t bars since they would be beefier.

I also thought that a set of re-indexed torsion keys was supposed to drop that amount of tension back to the useable range of the stock torsion bar, in-turn eliminating the need to replace the stock t bars.

I was aware that the shock travel was lowered with the truxx bracket but knew enough to replace the shocks.

After reading this I think I might just put the stock torsion keys back in.

Thanks, it looks like I need to do some more math!

Having the aftermarket keys surely does not hurt anything, it's just that they are not needed on the H3. All they do is allow you to crank the TBs even more than the stock keys isnce they are re-indexed.