2 Inch Lift on H2.

[DuckTruck]

SummitUP,

To get the full 2-3" from the Cognito kit, does one need to purchase the green keys also or can this amount of lift be had from the full crank of the stock t-bars?

Thanks for the input in advance,

DUCK

[SummitUp]

Originally Posted by DuckTruck

SummitUP,

To get the full 2-3" from the Cognito kit, does one need to purchase the green keys also or can this amount of lift be had from the full crank of the stock t-bars? Thanks for the input in advance, DUCK

That's a good question Duck, and I would say it all depends. In my case I needed the "green keys" to get the lift I needed. The adjusting bolt on the driver's side only had a 1/4" of adjustment left before bottoming out (passenger side was at 1/2"), and turning it in all the way didn't give enough lift.

My advice to anyone wanting to do this is just go ahead and start cranking the T-bars up and see how far you can go. There's a tremendous amount of pressure on those adjusting bolts, and to avoid damaging the bolts (i.e. stripping the threads) it's highly advised to unload the front suspension first by jacking the front end high enough to get the front wheels off the ground. And don't forget the WD40!

One other thing to consider, is the torsion bar key installation tool is required to change the keys. Looks like this:

[DuckTruck]

Thanks man.

I was thinking that I would install the Cognito kit.....then crank fully.....then determine if more is needed (aka if I can or can't fit my 40"s).

DUCK

[HumminNBoatin']

I hear you guys on the Cognito etc.... But if you crank it all the way the truck will have no squat at all. Am I not right?? And if I dont crank them all the way then do I really need the cognito kit?? I understand im going to need new struts no matter what.

Boss. I would imagine that if you got 38's that were 12.5 inches wide it should fit with a slight lift. Hell I got a buddy who did a 2inch custom body lift on his SUT and he is running 40's!

Also what about the rear end? Have any of you guys lifted a rear end with Air? I have not had time to put a call into Travis yet but I will soon.

[DuckTruck]

HumminNBoatin'.....

All I have heard re: lifting the rear end w/ air susp. would be to "extend" the sensor arms that control the rear lift option.

I think I remember reading something about "fooling" this sensor OR being able to have the "standard ride height" of the H2 adjusted upward.

DUCK

[Bimmer9938]

I also have the Truxxx 2.5-3 F 1.5R lift and like it very much.


Before lift.

After lift.


New wheels (old tires).

[DuckTruck]

Looks good Bimmer.....all you need now is some bigger meats! Maybe 40"s?

I also agree that the "best" option for the Cognito kit would be to get the longer shocks. However, I have Rancho 9000's on all four corners (they are adjustable for those who didn't know) and I am in love with them.

Thus, this fact coupled with the reports of the Bilsteins being valved much harder and that I have adjustability as we speak......I will be opting for the extender hardware.

DUCK

[DRTYFN]

Originally Posted by DuckTruck

SummitUP,

or can this amount of lift be had from the full crank of the stock t-bars?

[tomp]

Truxx kit is a waste of money and is a rip off. Go with the green keys from Chevy

OEM length shocks will be a problem before needing to replace the UCAs as the shocks are first limiting factor. You can get 1.5-2" of lift in front using OEM UCAs but your ball joints will wear out quickly. There is a point where the OEM UCAs will not allow you to fall within OEM alignment specs, so if you go to far - you will need to opt for Cognito UCAs

Before you hit a full 3" of lift in front, you will start getting half-shaft or CV joint vibrations at 70+mph. With 37s, the safe mark is 44.5" from ground to bottom of fender flare.

Uni-ball Cognito UCAs are very nice and will allow max height of 44.5" (with 37s) from ground to bottom of fender flare and still fall into OEM alignment specs. The Uniballs will never need replacing and may last life of H2.

Tim..only thing you might want to add to list id the Borgeson Steering shaft. It is "optional" but if you are looking to build ultimate non-lifted H2 - this is nice mod. It will further tighten steering as it rids it of slop in the shaft. Also rids clunk... Also, dont forget the tru-cool tranny cooler and the Diablo programmer to recal speedo for larger tires and deactivate GM torque management for "power on demand". Don't forget the Hutchison beadlocks Tim!!! Also, dump all drivetrain fluids and pour in Redline for big improvement

For those arguing about the 38s, Tim is right. He has owned more Hummers than all of us and offroads them too so you might want to heed his advice. You can't do 38s without at least a 4-6" lift without major rubbing issues and even then will still rub pretty bad offroad.

Summitup is on track as well.

[Bimmer9938]

Have at it. I had a Rancho lifted H2 with 37 13.50's. Ther new owner is running 38's....and he is out of room to try and fit 40's. I have also seen a Fabtech lifted H2 in action with 38's (6" lift) and he had rubbing issues as well. THat's with a true 6" kit/ so to say 40's will work awith a 3", I don;t see how...even with adding a 2" body lift.

Dose anybody make a 2" body lift for the H2? I've never seen or heard of it.

[timgco]

Originally Posted by Bimmer9938

Dose anybody make a 2" body lift for the H2? I've never seen or heard of it.

I'm not sure on who makes it, but I do know that either a 2" or 3" body lift is what is used on the DMax /Allison conversion to allow enough room.

I don't hink i would do a body lift on this truck though. I'm not sure we would gain too much from it. your rock rails and bumper woudl show a gap along with a mod would be needed to hide the gaps in the fender wells. Those lift lips might work though.

[Bimmer9938]

If anyone has info...please share.

[tomp]

Originally Posted by Bimmer9938

If anyone has info...please share.

Why would anyone make a 2" lift when you can get this with parts already available? Read what's already been posted and you can accomplish this amount of lift while strengthening the steering, increasing flex and ground clearance all at the same time. You gain so much more by doing this versus doing a lift kit that drops the front diff down and lower rear trailing arm brackets.

[OrangeCrush]

Originally Posted by tomp

Before you hit a full 3" of lift in front, you will start getting half-shaft or CV joint vibrations at 70+mph.

Tomp,

I know the Cognito UCA's are to be used in conjunction with a levelling kit but does installing the cognito UCA's allow the half-shafts not to be in a bind?


Can anyone tell me what's the difference between this and this



Thanks,

Mark

[DuckTruck]

i agree with two things thus far:

bimmer.....i WISH we had the same suspension as the H1!

and second, this thread is really bringing out some great info...lets keep it coming.

DUCK

[tomp]

Originally Posted by OrangeCrush

I know the Cognito UCA's are to be used in conjunction with a levelling kit but does installing the cognito UCA's allow the half-shafts not to be in a bind?

Can anyone tell me what's the difference between this and this

Mark, no - the Cognito UCAs don't circumvent the issue with the half shafts. I know the height I provided with 37s works with no CV vibrations at 70+mph. Prior to being at 44.5" from ground to bottom of fender flare, I was at 45.5" and it vibrated at 70mph at that height so you could try something in between to see if you can get more that 44.5" height using 37s.

The difference in those two UCAs is the joint. Once has standard ball joints (but are replaceable where OEM joints are not) and the the other has uniball joints on the more expensive UCAs. These use a large steel ball for the joint and are much stronger and may last for life of H2.

[OrangeCrush]

Originally Posted by tomp

Mark, no - the Cognito UCAs don't circumvent the issue with the half shafts. I know the height I provided with 37s works with no CV vibrations at 70+mph. Prior to being at 44.5" from ground to bottom of fender flare, I was at 55.5" and it vibrated at 70mph at that height so you could try something in between to see if you can get more that 44.5" height using 37s.

Well I guess that leaves me screwed. I'm only at 42.5" and running 35's and at 70mph, I can feel the halfshafts making a minor vibration.

I guess my only choice is to lower the front end a bit to relieve some of the bind the halfshaft is getting and replace the rear 1 1/2" spacer in the rear with perhaps a 1" spacer.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Mark

[timgco]

Originally Posted by OrangeCrush

Well I guess that leaves me screwed. I'm only at 42.5" and running 35's and at 70mph, I can feel the halfshafts making a minor vibration.

I guess my only choice is to lower the front end a bit to relieve some of the bind the halfshaft is getting and replace the rear 1 1/2" spacer in the rear with perhaps a 1" spacer.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Mark

Could this possibly be an alignment issue casing your vibes? Or maybe the Cognito UCA's will help? Not sure as I haven;t doen these mods yet. I think the most accurate way to measure would be from teh center of the hub to the bottom of the fender well.

[IRA51]

Originally Posted by DRTYFN

yes but ,you realy Fu*k up the nice smooth ride with the keys or cranking the bars .