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Re: TRUCK KEEPS DYING EVERY OTHER WEEK
Richard
Re: TRUCK KEEPS DYING EVERY OTHER WEEK
I found this the other day, its right in my draw range..gonna start disconnecting it tonight.
Condition/Concern:
During battery parasitic drain testing, there may be some confusion as to the normal power consumption reading from the OnStar? system.
Recommendation/Instructions:
When performing current draw tests it is important to understand the power cycles of the various OnStar? systems. All OnStar? customers with currently active vehicles have digital/analog cellular capability. A green status LED on the OnStar? keypad normally indicates an active OnStar? account. A red LED indicates a system DTC. On Gen 6 and later systems, a clear, or "dark" LED may indicated the OnStar? system has been deactivated or may possibly have a no power concern/no communication.
The OnStar? system will stay powered up after ignition off for an extended time in order to allow for remote services like door unlock, horn honk, light flash, etc to take place as requested by the customer. Power cycle (also referred to as DRX) times vary depending on the generation of the OnStar? system. Technicians may identify the system generation by using a Tech 2 (Body>VCIM>Module ID Information>Module Information 2) or by using www.onstarenrollment.com.
All Gen 6, Gen 7, and 8 systems are powered up continuously for 48 hours from ignition off. After the 48 hours the Gen 6 and some Gen 7 power off; Gen 7.xxL, and all Gen 8 systems will enter a 9 minute OFF 1 minute ON power cycle for an additional 72 hours. At the beginning and end of the 1 minute ON stage, you may or may not experience a short spike of current at the beginning and at the end. This allows for calls from OnStar to be received by the system. After 120 hours from ignition off, these systems then completely power off.
The expected current draw of the OnStar? module is:
? IGN ON - 240 to 400 mA
? IGN OFF - 3 to 20 mA for 48 hours
? IGN OFF - after 48 hours (120 hours on specified VCPs) - 0.2 to 0.8 mA
? During extended voltage monitoring for platform battery parasitic it is possible that you may see a voltage spike caused by a cellular registration call that was triggered by the local cellular system, or that OnStar? has set a monthly trigger for a vehicle data upload call for the OnStar? Vehicle Diagnostic email upload. Note that in analog cellular markets all module generations completely power down after 48 hours. You can contact Technical Assistance to find out if your dealership cellular market or the customer's home cellular market still has analog service.
Re: TRUCK KEEPS DYING EVERY OTHER WEEK
1987 Jeep YJ 403hp sbc 653hp on NOS
1998 Chev Z71
2007 Chev Trailblazer SS
Re: TRUCK KEEPS DYING EVERY OTHER WEEK
Wasn't it around 02-03 when all those bad caps were made in taiwan? It would suck to have that **** start showing up in vehicles..
Re: TRUCK KEEPS DYING EVERY OTHER WEEK
1987 Jeep YJ 403hp sbc 653hp on NOS
1998 Chev Z71
2007 Chev Trailblazer SS
Re: TRUCK KEEPS DYING EVERY OTHER WEEK
I'll be god damned, but I found my problem tonight. As i said before I disconnected all kinds of **** including my HID lights. But I only disconnected them at the ballasts.
I pulled the cover off my fuse block and yanked the main power feed there where my HIDs are powered off of. Obvoiusly that killed everything, but i didn't reconnect the power to the HID's when i connected it back up. Drain was about 25mah. WTF, no more drain, its the damn lights!... So I go to the HID manufacturers website and there's a little notice a couple pages deep about the H1 and H2 HID kits. The plug that connects to the relays IS WIRED WRONG! Swapped the 2 wires and everything is great.
I am so glad I figured this damn thing out...was gonna take it to the dealer monday if i didn't find the cause this weekend.
If anyone if wondering which HIDs are factory wired wrong, its this set-
http://www.predatorinc.com/projectio...dlampset1.aspx
Re: TRUCK KEEPS DYING EVERY OTHER WEEK
I think it was OnStar even though they said it already had the latest update and equipment .They said my drain was around 300 milliamps but bounced from 250-400 but most of the time it was around 300.
So far she has been great and no problems and the only thing I have noticed which I have always noticed is the volt gauge bouncing between 12-15 volts on me all the time. I read in the book it says it drops lowering during Fuel Economy Mode (whatever the hell that means, shocked to read fuel economy and hummer in same sentence). One service tech thought that was strange thinking it should stay at 14 and the manager said that is normal. What?s your guys? do???
Richard.
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