What should I do in addition to oil change on H3!

[milbrath47]

Hey Guys,

The oil light just came on my H3. I got all the info I needed regarding the oil change, Ive also rotated the tires and got that out of the way a while ago. I read about greasing the H3 chassis and after searching the topic all I got on the forum was jokes and gay porn. Does anybody have the H3 underbody digram with grease point locations on it, or any specifics on where and what components to grease? I also read about lubricating the the door seals. What kind of grease are you guys using on the H3? I read the H2 guys are using mobil synthetic red. Any other maintenence diagrams and resolutions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much guys!- Michael Milbrath

P.S Please dont tell me KY jelly.
2006 Hummer H3
Adventure Suspension + Lux series

[milbrath47]

Hey Guys,

The oil light just came on my H3. I got all the info I needed regarding the oil change, Ive also rotated the tires and got that out of the way a while ago. I read about greasing the H3 chassis and after searching the topic all I got on the forum was jokes and gay porn. Does anybody have the H3 underbody digram with grease point locations on it, or any specifics on where and what components to grease? I also read about lubricating the the door seals. What kind of grease are you guys using? I read the H2 guys are using mobil synthetic red. Any other maintenence diagrams and resolutions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much guys!- Michael Milbrath

Iam going to use mobil synthetic oil with mobil filter. What filter do you guys reccommend. I plan on keeping this car for many years. My favorite car is my 1987 chevy caprice classic with 500,000 miles on it and still running strong. So anybody who says GM cars suck can kiss my ass.

P.S Please dont tell me KY jelly.
2006 Hummer H3
Adventure Suspension + Lux series

[milbrath47]

[SnakeH2]

Originally Posted by milbrath47

X2

Take it to your dealer

[milbrath47]

The dealer must of packed a lot of KY into your ass to make you say that!

[Hummer3]

The only other than I have done is added the GM oil drain plug with the magnet on it. The stock oil drain plug does not have one.

[milbrath47]

What does the drain plug with the magnet do? Your not talking about a Filter mag are you the one that make sure metal fragments do not escape your oil filter?

[fourfourto]

Oil change is simple. remove front bolts ,remove passanger side (2nd set of bolts)and loosen the drivers side ,it is longer loosen till about to come off ,loosen the 3rd set of bolts.It will come off ,
I had it up on a lift and didnt see any lub points for grease.I did spray some white grease on linkage and e/ brake,doors hood hatch ect.

The big zip lock bag trick worked for removing filter without dripping down on the frame ,it seems to have a drip pan spot to catch dripping oil.
when done just spray down with brake cleaner, botom of oil pan ect.

[milbrath47]

Thanks for all the replys so far guys!

[milbrath47]

So I dont need to mobil one synthetic Grease? Just spray on lubricant? I know the H2ers have to use rease.

[f5fstop]

Check the front and rear axle fluid levels; just for peach of mind. i would say check the T/case fill too, but that can be tricky, depending on when your vehicle was manufactured. Some fill levels are at the fill plug like the diffs, some are above the fill plug.
Best source of information is the owner's manual and the maintenance requirements. Don't trust a dealer, they will try and sell you everything from a fuel injector cleaning to a flush and fill of the tires with fresh air.

[milbrath47]

I heard the dealer fills your tire with "special air" which makes the H3 fly over hills instead of driving over them!Thanks for the reply F5stop

[f5fstop]

Originally Posted by milbrath47

I heard the dealer fills your tire with "special air" which makes the H3 fly over hills instead of driving over them!Thanks for the reply F5stop

True, helps cut costs of front diffs.

[garnerbiker]

I asked the dealer how much they wanted to change the diffs and transfer case fluids. I was told that it was part of a "package" that did both diffs, transfer case, oil change, fluid level check, tire rotation, etc. All that for $699.00 !!! Are you kidding me?

I did all that on mine for under $50.

That is truly spectacular.

I love my dealer.

[Wisha Haddan H3]

Under $50 ??? And you changed the oil, diffs, and tx case? Tranny too? Where do you get your oil?

[milbrath47]

Must be mining it out of his back yard

[usetosellhummer]

Come on! the fluids are rated for a long life and unless your balls out beating the rig just change the oil every 3-4k with good old oil. Talk to a real tech and he will tell you it is spliting hairs on synth vs reg. oil.
If your keeping track, I prefer powder

[milbrath47]

You can say what you want about synthetic oil but when push comes to shove I know that the synthetic i started using in my caprice at 150,000 miles has helped it get 500,000 miles with no major problems except some maintenance fixes. It still runs strong to this day. If you plan on keeping it for a long time use the good stuff. Same goes for you body, sure tap water and bottled water may all be water but after drinking one or the other for decades, Iam sure you will be able to tell the difference in your body. Be good to your car and body as they will be good to you for years to come!

[f5fstop]

Under normal circumstances, I would opt for Dino versus syn oil, and it is something that can be debated forever, and in the end, we will all have to agree to disagree. However, the most important part of any oil change is not to change except when required. Under most circumstances, the 3K oil change has gone the way of the dinosaur.
If you ever question the oil life indicator, then have a sample of your oil sent to a oil analysis lab; such as Blackstones in IN. This will put most minds to ease. Every other oil change I send a sample just to see what the oil is like after X-number of miles. It also shows particles in the oil that should not be there, such as metal. It will give you a breakdown and tell you if some metals are normal for the engine. (Example, LS1 engines were noted for high nickel in the early miles.)

[Hummie2]

Definitely believe in oil analysis. Used it for years in fleet service. You can be warned of problems that you would never have known about until it was too late and the damage was done. I remeber a few rigs that had very small leaks in the air intakes, they showed high silica in the anaylsis. We would never have looked for the problem or found them until the ring and cylinders were worn out if not for anaylsis. We never changed oil until the anaylsis said to. Usually that was well beyond 12months, we sampled the oil every 90 days and changed filters @180 days. It also helped us decide if synthetic was right for that fleet. It wasn't.